Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgarrett
My brother has a 1933 Model B pickup with a cracked block that he doesn't think can be properly repaired to be reliable. Early Model B blocks are notorious for this problem. There seems to be only 3 solutions to get it back on the road and maintain a somewhat stock appearance:
1). Find a good "Diamond" Model B block at a reasonable price. This block had better casting quality and doesn't have a tendency to crack but is hard to find!
2). Adapt Model A engine to the Model B oil pan along with making the wishbone mount and pedal modifications.
3). Switch over to a flathead V8.
Has anyone successfully adapted a Model A engine to function in place of the Model B and what are the necessary modifications and pitfalls of taking on the switch? I know about the challenges of grafting the rear part of the Model B oil pan to work on the Model A pan while making sure the rear oil seal is secured. Also, I'm told the dip tray on the Model B sits deeper in the pan and may starve the dippers on the Model A rods, but haven't verified that.
Would appreciate any guidance or advice on solutions, tips, tricks, etc.
Thanks to all.
M. Garrett
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I will start with the good news. The pedal assembly and wishbone mount on the frame in 1933 so, assuming you are running the 1933 transmission, they are not a problem. You will have to add a fuel pump, use the Model B cylinder head and the shorter 1933/34 water pump on the Model A engine. My advice would be to not try and use a Model engine. While it could be done it will GREATLY reduce the value of the vehicle. I would recommend either finding a Model B engine or installing a V8. The 21 stud V8 engines through 1938 are basically a bolt in, in fact Ford made a water passage block off plate so the dealers could install the 1937-38 engine (find on EBAY). Note that the 1937 and 1938 21 stud engines had insert bearings. I have had a Model B roadster since 1969 and have only heard a few complaints about the Model B engines cracking.
Charlie Stephens