Quote:
Originally Posted by johnneilson
Brett,
good question, you can use the "A" trans, bell housing and pan but the pan will require a little work. You see, the rear main is larger on the "B" motor so the radius at the rear will need to be opened up, also, the "B" rod nuts will hit the side next to the rail edge. This can, and should be corrected by using APR rod nuts which are smaller OD and much stronger.
Or, you can cut the bell housing extension off the "B" pan.
OK, you mentioned the "B" block is cracked, where? Valve seats can be replaced/installed but it must be done correctly. Otherwise you will have leaks at the seats. This applies to "A" motors as well. One of the biggest problems I have seen are the head studs and repairs that someone has attempted. From drilling off center to butchering the holes down through the boss etc.
A friend of mine always mentions that perfect blocks do not exist, it is a matter of your persistence to use old junk. Do not despair though, keep looking, there are many good serviceable blocks around.
J
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John,
Thanks for the reply! First off, I have no idea of the condition of my block, so questions concerning my use of the B block are purely hypothetical. As I get closer to discerning my direction, I'll be more thorough in my inspections.
Secondly, will the B crank accept A rods? I'm guessing , since I must turn down the main journals, that I would be required to turn the rod journals as well to use A rods. Would that not eliminate the rod nuts and rail edge from occupying the same real estate?
Finally, thanks to all that have commented here! I'm still learning and want to make good decisions when I finally start assembling my banger.