[conservationist]

Tom,

No, I'm using a cheap digital ohm meter. Numbers just fluctuate (but do go zero when I touch terminals to each other to test). Getting too dark in garage to work more tonight and have in-laws in town so need to keep head out from under the hood for a bit. This Diode was from Bert's Model A part A10505D -- but gotta say what came looks nothing like pic on their online catalog. The electrical system is 6 volt, positive ground.

I'll unhook battery side and try your test tomorrow. I'm 99.9 % sure that I put this thing together correctly as to wiring. However, I did drill the 1/2" hole a bit lower than I now would have liked to, so the edge of the diode (hat rim for lack of better description) is touching the base where the coil once was. From looking at how it is all assembled, not sure that makes any difference, but, would have liked it a bit higher.

So, when you say it is correct; or open due to bad connection or bad diode, I'm confused as it sounds like those are all the same reactions, but different results or conclusions??????

Bottom line, from what I an tell, it isn't working so I'm sorta SOL at this point if the diode will output amps at low speeds. I'll also "adjust" third brush again just to be sure, but at this point, I feel I have:

A good clean solder point from diode wire to terminal (all bright and shiny)

A solid connection (if it makes a difference) of diode head to the old cutout base

Good connections from cutout terminals to both battery side and generator side -- although I can't speak of how good the "inside" terminal connectivity is but can test tomorrow. Like I said, there is corrosion inside.

If I can break away, I may go buy a better meter at radio shack if you think that will provide answers

What would make a diode go bad -- other than whiskey and loose women??

Thanks,

Bob in Boise