[rotorwrench]

The 91A-2108/2109 slotted links were the same from 1939 through 1948 but the green bible shows that the operating levers 91A-2103/2104 were used from 1939 through 1945. The lever changed to the 59A-2103/2104 for 1946 through 1948. Kubes photo is likely 1940 so that's what the 1945 commercials should look like. If someone used parts from a 1946 or later then there may be some difference in the early and late levers but I don't know what that difference is.

The lever has to engage the slot in the link in order for the E-brake to work at all. That attachment is what works one shoe toward the rear and the other toward the front. There are right and left parts for both assemblies but I doubt if they will even fit correctly on the opposite side. The photo in post #1 is not clear on whether there is an unseen link there when assembled. I'd have to see the other side of the lever to see if there is a good link there. This may be the difference between the early type lever and the late type lever.

If the lever does properly engage the link then I'd be looking at the shoes and drums to see if there is too much wear on the braking surfaces or there may be a mix up in shoes. There are early and late type shoes as well but I don't know if they would even fit on the wrong backing plate or not. The drums should be no larger in ID than 12.060". The linings were meant to fit a drum that is within tolerance. If the drum is worn too much than the shoes have to move too far to make contact.

Folks find all sorts of things wrong with the tapered end of the axles. I've seen the threaded end beaten down like that before. If some previous owner or shade tree wrench beat on it for an hour to remove the drum & hub the they likely had to reshape the end and re-thread it as well. This is not uncommon to find on this old stuff. The tapers can get worn from too much fretting due to a loose axle nut or a sheared key spinning in the hub. If the taper will still fit the hub and the drum doesn't rub the brake baking plate then there may be a bit of life left if the threads will hold a proper torque. Torque is important on a tapered shaft. It's common to find tapered shims on them too but the axle nut has to have a good engagement for proper torque. There are still good axles out there but it's getting harder to find them in this day and age.