[tbirdtbird]

0V at armature side means the gen is not genning and the cutout is open. The 6.2 you are reading is surface voltage on the battery itself. Any gen may need to be polarized from time to time. I have had to re-polarize my A gen several times over 10 yrs, usually after sitting all winter. You are not polarizing the cutout with this process, but re-magnetizing the pole shoe magnets. The cutout has no way of knowing if the battery charge is low. Usually if all systems are correctly operational you set the third brush to show about a 4 amp charge at fast idle if mostly daylight driving, higher if more nighttime driving. This is a compromise, it will never be perfect but it sure worked anyway for the past 80 yrs for most of us. I am well aware of motoring a gen to 'test' it, but the battery voltage supplied should be the same as the gen is rated for, not higher or lower. And yes, it will not motor fast because it was not made to work that way. The field coils need to be ohmed out and the armature needs to be put on a growler. These 2 tests take 5 min. Drop by my shop in N. Texas and I'll run these tests for you for free. It requires several types of tests to test a gen. I'd still put on a known good gen and known good cutout and see what happens, you have nothing to lose. You did state the battery was recently load tested but I'd try another known good battery also. The quite diverse opinions of what needs to happen here are intriguing. I do know that part of the problem is that none of us can be right there to check it all out.