Okay, here you go:
- This uses (5) existing center-section bolt hole in the vertical section
- Make sure that you allow for a bolt hole, probably 9/16" diameter hole, for the motor steady rod on this side!
- The scheme is similar to Ralph's,
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...34&postcount=3 but note that there is no hole for the steady rod!
- Insert long enough grade 8 bolts front to back
- Tighten and torque the spacer plate with nuts that have the permanent red Loctite on them. Lock washers may be good too. You don't want theses bolts and nuts to be able to turn. This way you can tighten and remove the master cylinder plate during and after the installation. a 3/8" air racket is good here for its "impact" properties. The bolts are buried later so this allows everything to be removed from the back.
- The top two master cylinder bolt heads , especially the inboard one, are going to be right on or just below the center section bottom bump out. This location will give you a level push-rod that clears the front lip of the center section.
- Mount the master cylinder to its plate and then slip over the protruding bolts of the center section and install retaining nuts.
- The plate should be 4" wide in case you decide to switch out to another master cylinder later, like a two bowl type. Many of these only have a two bolt flange on them.
I also want to note that the tightest clearance for the push rod is the clevis for it on the front end where it attaches to the brake pedal MC bracket , a plate welded onto the original brake pedal arm.
Glenn