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COE Dan · 09-15-2011, 02:18 AM

Chris,

Great truck you have there. I'm back on Ford barn after my recent move to Hawaii. I've got a 47 COE as well and I've had it about 6 years now. Unfortunately, I could not ship it to Hawaii and it awaits my return in long term slumber...I won't tell you where so you don't 'promote' any parts off of it...just kidding.

Anyways, rest assured all of what you're going through is pretty much what I've gone through on mine and this wasn't the only old, big truck I've owned...it's par for the course but solving the problems is highly rewarding and my COE has brought me great pleasure over the short time I've owned it. Here's a couple of pieces of useful info (I think):
1) Tires: I've got 6 old, cracked, worn bias-ply tires. These trucks don't drive fast. If you can get the vibration out, I wouldn't bother replacing a tire unless there is tread separation or it won't hold air. You're not likely to get this truck going fast enough to lose control and go off the road. Having said that, I can only get my truck up to about 30 before my vibration gets real bad. I traced it to one of the rear wheels that is either bent or poorly balanced. I overlook the inconvenience and don't drive it any faster.

Secondly, you won't be able to find radial tires for these rims. In fact, all truck rims with an even wheel diameter (i.e. 18", 19", 20", etc) are bias ply and usually designed for tube-type, multi-piece rims. Radial tires designed for tubeless applications are all half-sizes (i.e. 19.5", 20.5", 22.5"). This is done to prevent your tire shop from "trying to fit" a tubeless tire on a tube-type rim.

Lastly, you talk about a vibration at 15 mph and up. One last thing to consider with bias ply tires... If the vehicle sits for a while (as little as a week) or you drive it in colder temps, then the bias ply tires will develop a 'set'. Essentially, they have a flat spot. Once the tire warms up, the flat spot disappears and the ride smooths out...somewhat. It won't be smooth as glass but better. Also, your rear tires appear to be NDMT...that is, Non-Directional Military Tread...great for on/off road use but not designed solely for highway use. Military trucks of the same era topped out about 45 mph and ride quality was not among the acceptance criteria of the tires. That may solve some of your vibration issue.

Several of the others have mentioned places to get the tires if they do need replacing. Try Coker, Lucas or Universal tire companies. All advertise in Hemmings Motor News.

2) Trans: First of all, if you want a quiet trans, you won't find it in the 4-speed. Unlike the commercial and car trans from Ford, all the gears are straight-cut which results in an impressive whine (especially in the lower gears). Also, the trans is non-synchromesh in all gears requiring you to double-clutch on the way up and both double clutch with a engine speed change on the way down. Can be tricky (took me a month to learn) but once you get the feel, it's like riding a bike...

Will a Ford 3-speed work? Maybe...the engine is no more powerful than the car or pickup but others on this forum might know more. The real challenge with converting to a 3-speed is that the 4-speed is of the more-modern open driveshaft design. Ford's 3-speeds were closed propeller tube designs on the car and commercial vehicles (pickup, panel, etc). I don't know when Ford switched to open driveshaft for the car/pickup...maybe around the 8BA era...(48 and younger).

3) Wiring: I think Rhode Island Wiring makes a harness for the COE...if you want to go totally stock. My truck had been totally rewired for 12V by the previous owner. Mine too caught on fire (badly installed aftermarket ignition switch). Fortunately the fire stopped burning insulation once the short melted through the 10-gauge battery feed wire. But that also killed power to everything while I was driving. I can't imagine what it looked like from the outside. Smoke was billowing out of the cab window while I was driving it and it probably looked like an audition for a Laurel and Hardy sequence. Long story short, I rewired the entire truck, threw out all the aftermarket hot rod crap that didn't work right or wasn't installed right, kept the 12V system but went back to the original ignition switch/push button start. Works like a charm. I've got all the schematics I drew up if you need any assistance wiring/rewiring yours.

Anyways, I'm by no means an expert but I enjoy the tinkering and problem solving and I'm always available to ask a question. If you need my email, just PM me as it's easier to get a hold of me that way.

COE Dan

09-15-2011, 02:18 AM	#21
COE Dan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Now in Wichita, KS Posts: 251	Re: '41 Ford COE questions Chris, Great truck you have there. I'm back on Ford barn after my recent move to Hawaii. I've got a 47 COE as well and I've had it about 6 years now. Unfortunately, I could not ship it to Hawaii and it awaits my return in long term slumber...I won't tell you where so you don't 'promote' any parts off of it...just kidding. Anyways, rest assured all of what you're going through is pretty much what I've gone through on mine and this wasn't the only old, big truck I've owned...it's par for the course but solving the problems is highly rewarding and my COE has brought me great pleasure over the short time I've owned it. Here's a couple of pieces of useful info (I think): 1) Tires: I've got 6 old, cracked, worn bias-ply tires. These trucks don't drive fast. If you can get the vibration out, I wouldn't bother replacing a tire unless there is tread separation or it won't hold air. You're not likely to get this truck going fast enough to lose control and go off the road. Having said that, I can only get my truck up to about 30 before my vibration gets real bad. I traced it to one of the rear wheels that is either bent or poorly balanced. I overlook the inconvenience and don't drive it any faster. Secondly, you won't be able to find radial tires for these rims. In fact, all truck rims with an even wheel diameter (i.e. 18", 19", 20", etc) are bias ply and usually designed for tube-type, multi-piece rims. Radial tires designed for tubeless applications are all half-sizes (i.e. 19.5", 20.5", 22.5"). This is done to prevent your tire shop from "trying to fit" a tubeless tire on a tube-type rim. Lastly, you talk about a vibration at 15 mph and up. One last thing to consider with bias ply tires... If the vehicle sits for a while (as little as a week) or you drive it in colder temps, then the bias ply tires will develop a 'set'. Essentially, they have a flat spot. Once the tire warms up, the flat spot disappears and the ride smooths out...somewhat. It won't be smooth as glass but better. Also, your rear tires appear to be NDMT...that is, Non-Directional Military Tread...great for on/off road use but not designed solely for highway use. Military trucks of the same era topped out about 45 mph and ride quality was not among the acceptance criteria of the tires. That may solve some of your vibration issue. Several of the others have mentioned places to get the tires if they do need replacing. Try Coker, Lucas or Universal tire companies. All advertise in Hemmings Motor News. 2) Trans: First of all, if you want a quiet trans, you won't find it in the 4-speed. Unlike the commercial and car trans from Ford, all the gears are straight-cut which results in an impressive whine (especially in the lower gears). Also, the trans is non-synchromesh in all gears requiring you to double-clutch on the way up and both double clutch with a engine speed change on the way down. Can be tricky (took me a month to learn) but once you get the feel, it's like riding a bike... Will a Ford 3-speed work? Maybe...the engine is no more powerful than the car or pickup but others on this forum might know more. The real challenge with converting to a 3-speed is that the 4-speed is of the more-modern open driveshaft design. Ford's 3-speeds were closed propeller tube designs on the car and commercial vehicles (pickup, panel, etc). I don't know when Ford switched to open driveshaft for the car/pickup...maybe around the 8BA era...(48 and younger). 3) Wiring: I think Rhode Island Wiring makes a harness for the COE...if you want to go totally stock. My truck had been totally rewired for 12V by the previous owner. Mine too caught on fire (badly installed aftermarket ignition switch). Fortunately the fire stopped burning insulation once the short melted through the 10-gauge battery feed wire. But that also killed power to everything while I was driving. I can't imagine what it looked like from the outside. Smoke was billowing out of the cab window while I was driving it and it probably looked like an audition for a Laurel and Hardy sequence. Long story short, I rewired the entire truck, threw out all the aftermarket hot rod crap that didn't work right or wasn't installed right, kept the 12V system but went back to the original ignition switch/push button start. Works like a charm. I've got all the schematics I drew up if you need any assistance wiring/rewiring yours. Anyways, I'm by no means an expert but I enjoy the tinkering and problem solving and I'm always available to ask a question. If you need my email, just PM me as it's easier to get a hold of me that way. COE Dan