[34FordFabricator]

The 1933 1934 Ford engine steady rod bolt uses a nut and lock washer on the under side to secure it unlike the later ones in which the bolt threads directly into the engine steady rod itself. So because it has a nut there is no need to roll the threads. Standard threads will work just fine. See my photos of a rusty but original pair of bolts. Before I remove my part from a lathe, if there is to be more work done on it I mark it as to the depth and jaw number so it can be put right back into the lathe at the same position. My lathe has a run out of less than a thousands so easy to put back just right. Machinist all do things differently. The order of operation may vary but as long as the end result is right that is all that matters. I use a spigot to hold my work and cut it off at the end. It is always my method of holding the work during all the operations. I may mill the square hole in the head of the bolt but as already stated there may be a slight radius in the corners. There is another way and that is a rotary broach but I don't have one. I used one at the shop I worked years ago. I do have a fixture that this will thread into to hold it while it is being milled. Please look at my last two photos of the Roadster windshield stud I made on the lathe. I was able to obtain perfection by my order of operation and please look the threads as they look and operate perfectly.
Bill