Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl
Thanks Larry just the sort of information I needed .
It will be interesting to see if the motor is any less smooth and if the judder I get in reverse will improve with original mounts -Karl
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Karl,
Purdy brings up a good point in checking the frame for sag/mount sagging etc. You might want to take a photo or two for reference and check out where your torque tube is in relation to the brake cross shaft... make sure it's not close and especially on it. Look at the frame where the current mounts are to make sure there's no real sag in that area. If you have access to a frame spreader it does make it easier, if not a small bottle jack/porta power will do OK. If you were closer I'd sent you mine to borrow....
On the chatter it may be something clutch related, but can also be attributed to the mounts. A smooth resurfaced flywheel, new spring center clutch disc, and properly setup pressure plate with all the fingers adjusted correctly when bolted in will give you a silk smooth clutch. I have a trick to adjust the fingers in the car if need be. Let us know how things pan out.
Forgot to mention, when putting in the flywheel housing bolts it is best to not tighten all the way till you get them all started. It just depends on how it's going. A small inspection mirror to see where the threads are helps... Also, I use a low profile course tooth craftsman ratchet with a 3/4 socket to get the flywheel bolts in. Some of the fine tooths are too big.
I know Purdy and I are always on the same page... so I would heed his comments as well.
Best of luck!
Larry Shepard