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Purdy Swoft · 06-13-2014, 09:15 PM

Most of what has been said but ... to do a better job and make the job easier on yourself , first remove the engine . There is no better way or easier way. If you don't have an engine stand, Harbor freight has them at low cost. First, drain the oil. after the engine is mounted to the stand, right side up, remove the oil pan so that the oil remaining in the dipper tray doesn't spill into the engine when it is turned over. Remove the valve cover and outside oil drain tube. Remove any remaining oil from the valve chamber the best that you can so that it doesn't make a mess when the engine is turned . Get some large pipe cleaners and insert them in the oil passages to keep crud from entering the passages while you clean out the valve chamber , this was Bill Ws idea and a very good one .Turn the engine over on the stand so that the crankcase is easily accessable . If the oil pan gasket remains stuck to the block and the gasket and rope seal is in good condition, you can save time and money by reusing them. You can also prevent the risk of causing new leaks if you make mistakes when installing a new gasket. If the engine had leaky gaskets to start with, then replace them. I prefer the thick paper gaskets and have less problems with them . While the pan is off and everything is cleaned up, now is a good time to check and adjust rod and main bearing clearance. I set bearing clearance at .002 on an engine overhaul . If a cork oil pan gasket had been previously used, it will be best to hammer and dolly the pan rails . cork gaskets tend to squeeze down when the bolts are tightened, usually bending the pan rails in the process. Just a few thoughts. Good luck .

I've removed and replaced oil pans with the engine in the car a few times over the years and truth be known , it is a difficult and messy job .

06-13-2014, 09:15 PM	#14
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: removing the oil pan Most of what has been said but ... to do a better job and make the job easier on yourself , first remove the engine . There is no better way or easier way. If you don't have an engine stand, Harbor freight has them at low cost. First, drain the oil. after the engine is mounted to the stand, right side up, remove the oil pan so that the oil remaining in the dipper tray doesn't spill into the engine when it is turned over. Remove the valve cover and outside oil drain tube. Remove any remaining oil from the valve chamber the best that you can so that it doesn't make a mess when the engine is turned . Get some large pipe cleaners and insert them in the oil passages to keep crud from entering the passages while you clean out the valve chamber , this was Bill Ws idea and a very good one .Turn the engine over on the stand so that the crankcase is easily accessable . If the oil pan gasket remains stuck to the block and the gasket and rope seal is in good condition, you can save time and money by reusing them. You can also prevent the risk of causing new leaks if you make mistakes when installing a new gasket. If the engine had leaky gaskets to start with, then replace them. I prefer the thick paper gaskets and have less problems with them . While the pan is off and everything is cleaned up, now is a good time to check and adjust rod and main bearing clearance. I set bearing clearance at .002 on an engine overhaul . If a cork oil pan gasket had been previously used, it will be best to hammer and dolly the pan rails . cork gaskets tend to squeeze down when the bolts are tightened, usually bending the pan rails in the process. Just a few thoughts. Good luck . I've removed and replaced oil pans with the engine in the car a few times over the years and truth be known , it is a difficult and messy job .