Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Endy
I saw it happen on a tour one time. The owner unbolted #8 to remove the distributor for repair and in about 20 minutes the pan was full of water. That convinced me to never break the torque on the head unless I am removing the head. Especially out on the road. Since then I don't use a clamp to hold the pop-out cable in place. I installed a standard length stud in the #8 position. Another option is to install a 1\4" spacer under the nut.
I remove the distributor every time I change oil and clamp it in a vice, clean it up, dress up the points and re-set the gap. This also prevents it from ever rusting in place.
Clamping the cable down was part of Henry's anti-theft design.
Tom Endy
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My engine is a fresh rebuild. It has never been run and I am looking at that 8 th stud nut, the only one still loose, waiting for the clamp to be installed.
I am going to try something - I will cut the armored cable away just as it exits the switch body leaving a piece inside the casting to hold the parts in place. Then cut and remove the cable as it exits the long grommet. This will leave a few inches of bare wire. Then I will loosen the fit between the clamp and the cable so it will turn easily. Now as I turn the cable fitting out of the distributor the cable will turn freely up through the grommet and allow removal of the dist. The clamp will remain tight and the cable will look "normal" and I will still have my pop out switch. Bill G