11-09-2013, 12:24 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Windy City
Posts: 2,919
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Re: V8 Clutch conversion
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Haynes
I had my flywheel lightened, set up for V-8 clutch, and resurfaced for under $150.00. My local auto parts machine shop did it by using a blueprint I found somewhere on this web site.
I bought a NOS automobile V-8 clutch and pressure plate on eBay for under $125.00. Be sure you don't buy the similar looking Ford tractor pressure plate.
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I happen to prefer the non-flyweight Borg & Beck style pressure plate. I guess it's a matter of driving style. There is more spring pressure, but still much less pedal pressure than stock. This results in less slippage (and heat & wear) during heavy throttle and load slow speed pulls.
Most people think once a clutch plate is clamped, the plate never moves. This is not true. All clutch plates, no matter how strong the clamp, continuously drift while under heavy load. When you reach the point where the shock springs built into the disc hit their travel limit the same hammering forces that harmonically plague the crank begin working directly on the clutch plate. Imagine applying a 1/2" air ratchet to the splined hub. When those hub springs hit bottom the plate gets hammered along in a circle despite the clamp pressure. If you do a lot of heavy, slow pulls a weaker spring clutch will slip, heat, and wear more.
At higher speeds the counterweighted V8 clutch centripitaly applies more clamp pressure to compensate for the weaker springs. The result is a pedal that is actually harder to push down than the non-counter weighted version. If you run the engine rpm way up before shifting like I do, the non-counterweight version is actually easier to depress during gear up-shifts. Again, driving preferences.
The diaphragm clutch shown by Carl and mentioned by Logan (S10 style) has a very different pedal pressure profile than a straight spring plate like the stock or either of the later Borg & Beck styles, both the flyweighted V8 and stronger spring no flyweighted versions. A diaphragm clutch has maximum spring pressure when engaged and the pressure diminishes when the pedal is all the way down. Opposite of a straight spring. The result is a pedal that is very light to hold down for extended periods, like crawling in very slow stop/go modern traffic. They tend to have a bit of an engagement 'bite', requiring a bit of relearning for the feather point if you jump from one car to another. Again, driving preferences.
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