The Ford Barn - View Single Post

mrtexas · 09-03-2010, 10:21 AM

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I got a PM from someone asking about my MaxJax. Here is my answer:

Overall it's a winner! You are making some compromises like a max lift of 48inches but that is due to 9 foot ceilings. You have to be pretty accurate about centering your car between the posts as the arms are shorter than a standard two post lift.

I’m also giving MAXJACK some serious consideration. I have the same 9’ ceiling and no room for a 4-post.

How have you liked it? (do you trust it?)

I like it just fine. The first safety stop is at about 28" of clearance which seems like plenty high enough for sitting and working. I don't plan on trying the 48inch stop. My Honda Element couldn't be lifted any higher anyway.

I was at first sort of apprehensive to get under there and bought a pair of big jack stands for belts and suspenders. I changed the oil on my two modern cars yesterday and my confidence is growing. What makes this lift safe is the lower rating 6,000lbs and the shorter arms.

What did you decide was the right spacing for the posts? (can open door hit post?)

I went with 8'4" between posts by mocking up before I drilled the anchors.

I am going to drill 3 new anchors using 2 existing ones to move out about 6" as 8'4" was a little close for the 63 vert due to short wheelbase. It works but is a little close. For the Honda Element, Honda Odyssey, and Model A Ford 8'4" is about right. My Model A frame is too high under the arms for the standard 3 inch extension. I'm getting a 6inch extension made by a local machine shop just for the 29 Roadster and 28 Roadster Pickup. I had to locate the arm pad forward of the front jacking point to get the front/back weight correct for stability on the 63 vert. This locates the arm pad on the sloping up part of the frame by the engine. I may have to make a custom arm pad just for the Vette due to the slope.

Door clearance is a little close especially for the Odyssey. I had to get out via the sliding door.

Do you have 4” slab or thicker?
I tried to drill into a beam but missed it. My slab is about 5" thick there.

Any negatives?
The hydraulic hoses provided are a little short but workable. You have to disconnect one to drive through the lift. Drilling the 10 holes in the concrete with my Bosch hammerdrill was not fun or cheap. You have to buy a 7/8 bit and a 7/8 rebar cutter for $100+.

Anything else you could add would be appreciated.

I have a 24 foot wide garage and leaving the two posts set up still leaves plenty of room for parking two cars in there. The posts are on wheels and storing them away wouldn't be much effort. There are 5 bolts for each.

09-03-2010, 10:21 AM	#1
mrtexas Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Sugar Land, TX Posts: 4,420	More MaxJax Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I got a PM from someone asking about my MaxJax. Here is my answer: Overall it's a winner! You are making some compromises like a max lift of 48inches but that is due to 9 foot ceilings. You have to be pretty accurate about centering your car between the posts as the arms are shorter than a standard two post lift. I’m also giving MAXJACK some serious consideration. I have the same 9’ ceiling and no room for a 4-post. How have you liked it? (do you trust it?) I like it just fine. The first safety stop is at about 28" of clearance which seems like plenty high enough for sitting and working. I don't plan on trying the 48inch stop. My Honda Element couldn't be lifted any higher anyway. I was at first sort of apprehensive to get under there and bought a pair of big jack stands for belts and suspenders. I changed the oil on my two modern cars yesterday and my confidence is growing. What makes this lift safe is the lower rating 6,000lbs and the shorter arms. What did you decide was the right spacing for the posts? (can open door hit post?) I went with 8'4" between posts by mocking up before I drilled the anchors. I am going to drill 3 new anchors using 2 existing ones to move out about 6" as 8'4" was a little close for the 63 vert due to short wheelbase. It works but is a little close. For the Honda Element, Honda Odyssey, and Model A Ford 8'4" is about right. My Model A frame is too high under the arms for the standard 3 inch extension. I'm getting a 6inch extension made by a local machine shop just for the 29 Roadster and 28 Roadster Pickup. I had to locate the arm pad forward of the front jacking point to get the front/back weight correct for stability on the 63 vert. This locates the arm pad on the sloping up part of the frame by the engine. I may have to make a custom arm pad just for the Vette due to the slope. Door clearance is a little close especially for the Odyssey. I had to get out via the sliding door. Do you have 4” slab or thicker? I tried to drill into a beam but missed it. My slab is about 5" thick there. Any negatives? The hydraulic hoses provided are a little short but workable. You have to disconnect one to drive through the lift. Drilling the 10 holes in the concrete with my Bosch hammerdrill was not fun or cheap. You have to buy a 7/8 bit and a 7/8 rebar cutter for $100+. Anything else you could add would be appreciated. I have a 24 foot wide garage and leaving the two posts set up still leaves plenty of room for parking two cars in there. The posts are on wheels and storing them away wouldn't be much effort. There are 5 bolts for each.