[Richard (EV8G)]

There is much more that could be written on this subject, but here are some key points that should be considered:

IF you stay with the original steering, be aware that for earlier 1933, the ratio is/was (as was 1932) 13:1, which is difficult to steer. For later 1933, the ratio was changed to 15:1, which is MUCH better. New (Argentina-made) 15:1 gears are now available that seem to be good, unlike the former parts that were JUNK. Be aware that the 1933 steering shaft for 13:1 was 1/4" shorter than the shaft for 15:1 !!! (Good old Ford...) THEREFORE, you will need to have the shaft, column tube AND horn-light rod that are compatible length!!! (This is true whether you use the original 1934 steering, or transplant a later worm to the 1934 shaft.) Also, as already posted, you will need to have a 1933-1934 sector housing IF you use the original steering. The 1932 sector housing is very similar but NOT workable in a 1934. Note that both have 3 mounting holes BUT the 1932 (as installed in the vehicle) has ONE HOLE UP and two down, whereas the 33-34 has TWO HOLES UP and one down... Also, if you do use the 34 steering, it is vital that it be made LEAKPROOF so that HEAVY GEAR OIL can be used. (There are varying opinions on what lube to use, but grease does not migrate properly and STP was not intended...) The "leak-proofing" includes soldering the oil tube to the bottom plate AND machining the sector housing for a seal...

Note that the F-1 has a different design, in that the worm gear is below the sector gear (rather than above) which also relocates the shaft/column much lower than the original steering. This creates issues with where the column passes through the firewall and floor AND the angle of the column AND how the drop relates to the dashboard - to retain the original angle, a longer drop must be used at the dashboard... The F-1 is NOT the best choice for a 1934... The F-100 of 1956 (not sure about 53-55??? - anyone know?) has the same design as the 1934, in that the Worm gear is above the sector, so the column will be where it was originally and alot of problems are avoided... The hole in the frame for the sector shaft must be slightly enlarged. This would be the best alternative. As posted, the F-100 worm can be transplanted to the 1934 shaft and the original column/drop/lock can be retained. (NOTE that the drop/lock for PASSENGER CARS is different than that for COMMERCIAL models.)

The steerings for 1932-35 all use BUSHINGS for the sector. 1936 use needle
bearings. For 1937 (new-design steering with roller sector GEAR) they went
back to bushings. 1936 was the ONLY year that used needle bearings. These
can be retrofit to 32-35, which requires boring the sector housing. When Ford
went to them in 1936, they increased the OD of the sector housing so as to
maintain the thickness of the material. There has been some previous discussion on the barn as to whether the sector shaft material is suitable for
use with needle bearings (hardness) vs. bushings. I do not know the answer,
but it is something to consider, along with the wall thickness??? especially at
the joint with the flange... A big benefit can be gained in reducing steering effort by installing a needle bearing and race in the upper column to replace the (high-friction) bushing that Ford used there. This makes for a huge improvement in effort and smoothness of steering.

The F-1/F-100 steerings have about an 18:1 ratio, which provides for much easier steering, but which also SLOWS THE STEERING WAY DOWN so have to steer more, and road feel at high speeds is reduced. Lengthening the steering
(Pitman) arm can speed it back up - I think; this always confuses my brain...
but this can cause the drag link angle to be unacceptable, especially if using a dropped axle. Speaking of steering arms, the original 33-34 has an integral ball and comes in two versions; one with a "40" stamped on it for pasenger cars, and another with a "46" stamped on it for Commercials. The difference is in the "clocking" to compensate for the steeper angle of the Commercial column... Speaking of drag links, an adjustable-length is needed so that the front wheels can be going straight when the steering gears are on "high center" - otherwise, there will be slop/play when going straight, because there is built-in play in the gears at off-center to allow adjustment for wear without binding.

I run an original 15:1 in my 34 with all the original column etc. and it seems to
work good. I like the faster steering, especially at higher speeds, and find the
effort required at lower speeds to be acceptable FOR ME.