[rotorwrench]

If your corrosion is minimal, ie surface rust only, you can get away with using tank sealers like Bill Hirsch's stuff. If you go that route, I recommend using the phosphoric acid based tank etch that is part of the process. It won't start rusting instantaneously after the tank is rinsed and dried out with MEK or alcohol. If a person goes this route I also recommend getting more than what they say that you need to do the whole job. A person needs to use an old fuel gauge or fabricate a plug for that and use a good fuel filler cap plug that won't leak stuff all over the place. It sounds easier than it is. It's a long drawn out process that takes attention from the time its ready to seal until the job is done. The baffles in the tank require a lot of material to get everything covered. The baffles are complicated and that's where a lot of seal jobs fail is due to only partial cleaning and partial coverage. The only sure way to get full coverage is fill it to the brim. If a tank has any bad corrosion in it, there is a good possibility that it will have pin holes somewhere after removing all the corrosion. Sealants won't seal pin holes and I can guarantee that.