The Ford Barn - View Single Post - 53 8BA

RuralTowner · 08-02-2024, 10:52 PM

Been stuck dealing with the HPOP on a 50yrs newer F250 6.0.

Taking a break from that by finally getting around to putting in a set of T-stats ordered at same time as a pair of wing-capped U-joints for this thing. Drilled a 5/32 hole in each (my 1/8 bit was broken). Had a heck of a time getting the stats to stay centered & not slip aside while trying to keep them sandwiched against the housings since they're not quite as large as the recess. Been eyeing a set of NOS labeled that are stated to work on the flathead but seller is away. Let it idle for almost 30min & driver's gauge read 190F while passenger read about 170. I'm not convinced the lower reading one is accurate & will replace it. I know the factory electronic gauge read from the passenger side & gave you an average. The prior set of gauges had their inner bezels coming apart from the sun//heat (this was before the flush//rad change) but would read ~180 ea (also prior to the cleanse couldn't put any serious load on or risk overheat).

Tomorrow will give it a test drive in the later afternoon after off work & less likely to bake from the heat wash that will come through the (soon to be covered) gap in the firewall where the heater box used to be in its prior incarnation (no pun). If coolant level successfully sits higher in the radiator tank & I get a running temp that's no longer merely air ambient then it's success I guess.

The plates will be kept in the parts kit as backups to be changed as the set if the need arose on the go. Better than nothing. They would still slow coolant flow compared to wide open & let the engine run warmer until safely get to where need to go. Thermostats are afterall a thermally operated variable geometry flow regulator.

08-02-2024, 10:52 PM	#8
RuralTowner Member Join Date: May 2017 Posts: 63	Re: 53 8BA - Vanishing coolant Been stuck dealing with the HPOP on a 50yrs newer F250 6.0. Taking a break from that by finally getting around to putting in a set of T-stats ordered at same time as a pair of wing-capped U-joints for this thing. Drilled a 5/32 hole in each (my 1/8 bit was broken). Had a heck of a time getting the stats to stay centered & not slip aside while trying to keep them sandwiched against the housings since they're not quite as large as the recess. Been eyeing a set of NOS labeled that are stated to work on the flathead but seller is away. Let it idle for almost 30min & driver's gauge read 190F while passenger read about 170. I'm not convinced the lower reading one is accurate & will replace it. I know the factory electronic gauge read from the passenger side & gave you an average. The prior set of gauges had their inner bezels coming apart from the sun//heat (this was before the flush//rad change) but would read ~180 ea (also prior to the cleanse couldn't put any serious load on or risk overheat). Tomorrow will give it a test drive in the later afternoon after off work & less likely to bake from the heat wash that will come through the (soon to be covered) gap in the firewall where the heater box used to be in its prior incarnation (no pun). If coolant level successfully sits higher in the radiator tank & I get a running temp that's no longer merely air ambient then it's success I guess. The plates will be kept in the parts kit as backups to be changed as the set if the need arose on the go. Better than nothing. They would still slow coolant flow compared to wide open & let the engine run warmer until safely get to where need to go. Thermostats are afterall a thermally operated variable geometry flow regulator.