Quote:
Originally Posted by CT Jack
Cast iron cannot be welded so the best option of all would be to use the mechanical stitching technique. This method works well for most block cracks within the water jacket areas. We have used this method on many antique engines with good success. The final test of success is to pressurized the block for leaks. The stitching technique involves installing a series of small metal plugs along the crack line. The plugs are closely positioned to one another and individually threaded into the block which mechanically seals and locks the crack. This mechanical seal can withstand the thermal changes encountered during engine operation.
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Throwing this out there. To begin with, there is a product called Muggy Weld that
does allow cast iron to be welded. Second thought in this, ...if the casting has become thin due to rust (-or ???), it it has been my experiences that stitching plugs is
not going to work well because there is not anything to stabilize the plug is the surrounding area is thin.
If the vehicle were in my shop, the first thing I would suggest is to remove the radiator. Next clean the area to bare metal and then do a sonic test to know what you are dealing with. At that time, you should also be able to isolate the hole. Pressurize the cooling system if need be by capping the inlet port with your hand, and use compressed air on the outlet port of the water pump. As silly as it may seem, maybe just thread a sheetmetal screw into the pinhole and then grind the head almost smooth with the block. Use some JB Weld or other epoxy to stabilize the entire area in front. Repaint the bare area and reassemble. Lenny, there are likely several ways to repair this, so don't panic.