Quote:
Originally Posted by old ugly
toe in fyi
the issue with the spring gauges and chains is
- if one of or both of the wheels are not true. runout
or
- the tire is not on the rim true. runout
then the spring type gauge is not at all accurate.
make sure you have no wobbles in your wheels or tires. (model A wheels have been known to be bent)
if you have a bit of a wobbley tire or wheel
and
if you are going to do your toe-in with at tape measure you need to lift the front of the car wheels off the ground, spin the tire while at the same time scribing a line on the center tread of the tire, do it on both tires. then with the car back on the ground measure between scribe marks at the front and rear of the tires at the exact same height.
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Actually, the opposite is true. With a spring gauge or “Duby” toe-in gauge, a bent wheel or one with run-out is not a factor when measuring for proper toe-in specification. When it’s set up in front of the axle between the tire sidewalls with the chains just touching the floor, the gauge is then calibrated or set to zero. When the car is rolled forward and the gauge rotates with the wheels/tires from a 4 o’clock position to an 8 o’clock position, it remains at that same set point, relative to the wheels/ tires. The only thing that changes the reading on the gauge, is the amount of toe-in or toe-out, which is the difference in degree of angle between the left and right spindles relative to each other.
I just had this same conversation at tonight’s Model A club meeting when I gave a demonstration of my version of this type of gauge that I built with mostly stuff I had laying around. Here’s some pictures.