Quote:
Originally Posted by john charlton
When you drop the pan the oil pump will drop out with it . The oil pump is held in place by a spring attached to the bottom .The pump has to come out anyway so you can take it apart and clean especially the gauze filter screen . You will find a brass plug that is screwed into the block this is an NPT thread . There is no need to remove this when you put the pan back on it has been there for over 90 years and does not leak anyway . I loop a cable tie through the nearest pan bolt hole each side and around the backside of the pump "stalk" .Pull the cable tie tight and it will hold the pump in place . Offer up the pan and when the pan is nearly bolted up snip the cable tie and pull it clear . This saves you the bother of finding a suitable NPT plug to secure it or the funky tool the parts houses sell also cable ties are way cheaper !!! To pop out the dipper tray drop it open side down on a hard surface from shoulder height NOT concrete .It might take several goes but it will pop out .A lot of gunk will spill out so use a disposable curtain or whatever for easy capture and cleanup .
John in sunny morning Suffolk County England .
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I'm a rebel so went with method #3 (my own) when reinstalling the pump and pan; I removed the NPT plug and had a man hold pressure on the pump shaft with a brass punch. Only took a moment and she was firmly in place. The pan itself was a bit of a pain for me, ended up walking it in bolt by bolt, side to side. But it's sealed, straight and true so all's well there.
For the first run I went with 4qts of 10w-40 and 1qt of motor flush. After a good 1/2 hour of running the oil on the stick still looks and feels completely fresh. Verified the pump was functioning before reinstall, of course, no issue there it pumped quite well out of those two little slits. The oil passes the finger viscosity test also, therefore I intend to allow the motor flush ample time to do what it will before I drain it. The engine needs rebuilding of course but it is still a runner and I found no more metal in it other than the few very small pieces in the valve train area. It was interesting to me how that ancient mineral oil gunk had evenly coated everything in the crankcase with a sort of grey overlay.
The cylinder walls were smooth with very light vertical striations on the surface. All the drainback passages cleared easily. As horrified as you said I would be, and I indeed was horrified and amazed, it was nowhere near as bad as the video posted earlier in this thread. There were no handfuls of gunk, fingerfuls yes. Lots of grey stuff but hey it's 91 and original. Wanted to say thanks again, your direct insight has been invaluable. As I said before, it's not necessarily something one would expect, but upon seeing it, things become instantly clarified.
The cam lobes, however, don't think I've ever seen wear quite like that. They are not worn at all at the tapered business end, but are roughened and scored closer to the base of the cam. I assume this must be normal wear; not good by any means but normal for what it is.
Also, I understand zinc is important, and was planning to use 15W-40, 4 to 1qt of Marvel. I'll run a quart of Marvel for certain, my old friend Dick who grew up working on Model A's would have it I'm sure. But I've seen the variations suggested, is 15W-40 diesel motor oil 4 parts with 1 part Marvel good in your estimation?
This is one I'm really not sure of, 1st off these cars originally had positive ground as I understand it, I do not. I don't think that is an issue, but it is stated. What I do have now after bringing it from the point when the coil wire literally broke and fell off the original FORD coil the moment I touched it, is a 6v battery, 12v coil, extant 6v gen (which incredibly seems to work), rebuilt 6v starter, modern (60s tech?) points and condenser distributor. Do I have a problem not having it fully converted to 12v? As I understand it all that would be left is the gen, starter and of course the battery. And perhaps the ayooogah, which does work also with some coaxing. Sometimes I have to tap the casing, haven't taken it apart to lube it yet, as I assume it would be in need of.