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Pete · 07-01-2020, 08:40 PM

Some comments and observations:

Composite head gaskets don't work in model A/B flathead race engines so it is not a reliable thing to put in a street engine.

Just because you have a shop rebuild your engine doesn't mean they surfaced the block and even though many shops have excellent reputations, not all surface jobs are flat.

If an engine is assembled right, you can put straight alcohol in the radiator and the system won't leak, seep, weep, or ooze. If it seeps with ANYTHING in it, something wasn't done right.

The compression ratio of a head does not determine what torque should be applied to it when installing. Head manufacturers have determined by engineering design and testing what torque and the process to get it that will work indefinitely. If you don't adhere to this, the warranty is void as it should be.

If a head manufacturer says to torque to a given value and your block threads start pulling out at that value, the logical thing is to FIX THE BLOCK, not back off on the torque.

As a side note, on ANY engine I build, I check each individual stud hole at 100 ft. lb. with a 3 inch diameter sleeve. If it won't take that I fix it with a plug. NO Helicoils or Timeserts. Their OD threads do not go deep enough in many cases to remove all of the rotten material.

If you cut corners, for ANY reason, on even a stock rebuild, you will be doing the job over.

Oh, and I did not say they ran 65 lb. on the nitro engine.

07-01-2020, 08:40 PM	#19
Pete BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wa. Posts: 5,423	Re: Is this head gasket seepage acceptable? Some comments and observations: Composite head gaskets don't work in model A/B flathead race engines so it is not a reliable thing to put in a street engine. Just because you have a shop rebuild your engine doesn't mean they surfaced the block and even though many shops have excellent reputations, not all surface jobs are flat. If an engine is assembled right, you can put straight alcohol in the radiator and the system won't leak, seep, weep, or ooze. If it seeps with ANYTHING in it, something wasn't done right. The compression ratio of a head does not determine what torque should be applied to it when installing. Head manufacturers have determined by engineering design and testing what torque and the process to get it that will work indefinitely. If you don't adhere to this, the warranty is void as it should be. If a head manufacturer says to torque to a given value and your block threads start pulling out at that value, the logical thing is to FIX THE BLOCK, not back off on the torque. As a side note, on ANY engine I build, I check each individual stud hole at 100 ft. lb. with a 3 inch diameter sleeve. If it won't take that I fix it with a plug. NO Helicoils or Timeserts. Their OD threads do not go deep enough in many cases to remove all of the rotten material. If you cut corners, for ANY reason, on even a stock rebuild, you will be doing the job over. Oh, and I did not say they ran 65 lb. on the nitro engine.