[Purdy Swoft]

One thing that concerns me is that the gas and spark levers are shorter . The early two tooth housings with the longer 1929 levers are pretty scarce compared to the more common and plentiful 30-31 style with different quadrant and levers . All of my 29s have came to me with seven tooth steering . I would rather rebuild the seven tooth steering than use the 30-31 style steering in my 29s . Good reproduction parts are now available . Snyders offers a new steering sector that is made to Ford specs . Either Brattons or Snyders offer new steering shafts with the worm gear installed . all of the bearings except the very early 28 bearings are available . The seven tooth steering can be rebuilt as good as new . When in good condition the seven tooth steering doesn't need many adjustments . Maybe a couple of adjustments may help your steering . Here is how I adjust my seven tooth steering . I put the axle on stands so that the tires clear the floor . Get in the drivers seat , grasp the steering wheel on each side and push forward and pull backwards to feel the slack to help determine about how many shims will need to be removed . I remove the light switch from the bottom of the steering column without disturbing the wiring harness. I use a yard stick over the horn button and through the steering wheel to hold the button firmly down to aid in removing the light switch spider . push up on the spider and remove the C clip . The spider will now slide off the light switch rod . Remove the four seven sixteenth bolts and remove the lower steering bushing. there will be a stack of shims between the lower bushing assembly and the main housing. Removing shims reduces end play . It will be trial and error to find the optimum adjustment . You want to remove the play without getting it too tight . If this adjustment is too tight it will bind at certain places as the steering wheel is turned from end to end . If the slightest hard spot or bind is felt it will require another shim or two to be added back to the shim pack . with trial and error this adjustment can be made perfectly .Replace gaskets and other parts and move on to the sector end play adjustment on the engine side of the steering housing . There is a slotted screw with a lock nut Hold the slotted screw and back off on the lock nut enough to give room for adjustment . The sector adjustment is sensitive and the least bit too tight will cause hard steering and binding . Again trial and error turning the steering wheel from end to end while feeling for tightness or binds . The least bit of tightness will require backing off a bit on the slotted screw . When satisfactory adjustment is made , hold the slotted screw firmly in position and tighten the lock nut . Most of the time I find the pitman arm that connects to the sector will have a very small amount of movement between the sector shaft and the pitman arm . It will take some help to detect this movement . I like to check this with the tires on the floor . I have the help move the steering back and forth while I watch for the slightest movement between the sector shaft and the square hole that it passes through on the pitman arm . Usually when using a long 1/2 inch drive pull handle and a good six point socket will enable a person to get the leverage to tighten the pitman arm bolt and nut . Its not likely that you will be able to break or strip the bolt so go ahead and rare back on it enough to really tighten and remove all slack . Believe me , the least fraction of play between the sector and pitman arm will cause inches of slack at the steering wheel . If you take the time to carfully make these adjustments , you may be surprised at the improvement . every little bit counts . There are many other things that can effect steering besides the steering column assy .