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Joe K · 08-31-2019, 08:02 AM

The brass badge is quite thin and the shellac used as color agent is quite thin and brittle besides. VERY easy to crack the shellac if pried from the front.

Normal removal is done from the rear using blocks of wood/carpet to "buck-up" the front surround area around the oval, and then a 3/4" socket (size?) which you put in the back hole and use as a drift and tap with a hammer.

Problem with these is that while Ford perfected the "press-in" type of attachment to a high degree, rust can keep it in place, and once removed, the mechanical interference can remove a shade of metal from the inside of the hole - making the emblem more likely to fall out the next time.

Some use super glue or Locktite the second time. I have used a rubber O-ring which can be chosen to fit nicely into the back metal and holds by friction/compression.

Other vendors sell a version which is held by a tie-bar and nut which works - but use Locktite on the nut.

The "ledge-edge" (early) type emblem is not reproduced that I'm aware. The modern ones are to my eye indistinguishable from the originals when in place.

Joe K

08-31-2019, 08:02 AM	#5
Joe K Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,610	Re: Radiator Emblem The brass badge is quite thin and the shellac used as color agent is quite thin and brittle besides. VERY easy to crack the shellac if pried from the front. Normal removal is done from the rear using blocks of wood/carpet to "buck-up" the front surround area around the oval, and then a 3/4" socket (size?) which you put in the back hole and use as a drift and tap with a hammer. Problem with these is that while Ford perfected the "press-in" type of attachment to a high degree, rust can keep it in place, and once removed, the mechanical interference can remove a shade of metal from the inside of the hole - making the emblem more likely to fall out the next time. Some use super glue or Locktite the second time. I have used a rubber O-ring which can be chosen to fit nicely into the back metal and holds by friction/compression. Other vendors sell a version which is held by a tie-bar and nut which works - but use Locktite on the nut. The "ledge-edge" (early) type emblem is not reproduced that I'm aware. The modern ones are to my eye indistinguishable from the originals when in place. Joe K __________________ Shudda kept the horse. Last edited by Joe K; 08-31-2019 at 08:08 AM.