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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank long island
I remember doing my wagon the only difference was I used a ball peen hammer for recess's I also put a peel and stick sound deadener down after I primed
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I considered using a large socket (1-1/2") under the hole location as a template with a smaller socket above to be hammered down on the floor panel at the hole location, but it would have required extensive heating to stretch the metal and I was concerned about distorting the metal that I wanted to remain flat, so I chose not to hammer down the recesses. Also it would have been very difficult to get the large socket underneath centered in the hole. The way I did it, I got the location exactly where I wanted, got the depth I wanted and got the rigidity that I wanted. It was just a lot of work to get it.
After the primer and base enamel overcoat on the finished floor, I cut out roofing tarpaper and laid it down over the floorpans, transmission hump and footrests. (2) pcs; one for front floor and one for rear floor. Then, I salvaged some of the jute backing on the old rubber floorcovering that was still good and replaced the bad portions. I agree that a sound deadener would be much better, but I had a roll of tarpaper from a previous roofing project and also had a roll of jute laying around, so I used them without spending any more money. I was never concerned much with noise, the main purpose for the project was rust removal and prevention.