Quote:
Originally Posted by 30RoadTom
I have a stupid question and two informational questions. Hopefully I can get at least one answer to each. I'm trying to fully understand the job ahead before I get started.
Stupid question: If only one axle broke, why wouldn't the other axle still turn and move the car? I'm glad it didn't, because the wheel on the broken side would likely have come off, causing more damage. I'm just curious. Obviously I don't understand drivetrains....or transmissions.....or women.
First Informational question: When I do the disassembly....what's the purpose of the spring spreader? To basically KEEP the spring spread, enabling the removal of the axle housing on one side? Like, I just need to get a little tension on the spring with the spreader so the shackle bolts can be safely removed? So then the spreader would need to remain in place until after everything has been reassembled?
Second Informational question: Aside from the possibility of a worn differential gear on the end of the broken axle, is there any preference or benefit for purchasing an axle with gear already attached versus JUST the axle (and reusing the gear )? I see a difference in cost of over $150 from one source.
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The spring spreader is used to hold the tension in the spring while you unhook the shackle. Be very careful with that spring as it is lethal and can well kill you. Be sure to use a proper spring spreader. Do not use the one that is called a "traveling spreader", they are essentially half a spreader and are extremely dangerous. Leave the spreader in place until you have the shackle hooked back up.
Most rear axles fail at the outboard end. The only ones I have heard of failing at the gear end were reproductions.
What can contribute to rear axle failure is the lack of proper torque of the axle nut. If not tight enough it will allow the wheel to rock each time there is braking and acceleration. This constant pounding wallows out the key slot. Eventually a small crack will appear at the inboard end of the key slot. The crack will begin to travel around the circumference until it parts. It may take years to part after the initial crack occurs.
The amount on torque required on the nut varies depending on who is telling the story. What I do is set my torque wrench at 90 foot pounds and tighten until it clicks. I then look and see where the cotter pin hole is. If it is in the window I leave it at that value, if not I continue to tighten until the hole appears. You may go as high as 120. It is a good idea to check the torque value again after about 100 miles. I torque the wheel lug nuts to 60 foot pounds.
Tom Endy