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Old 07-22-2017, 09:18 PM   #9
Synchro909
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Default Re: cast iron drums ??

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo View Post
Synchro: And what do you do??
Paul in CT
I tack weld the back of the stud to the flange on the hub and (only for good measure), I drill through the brake drum between a couple of the stud holes and put a countersunk set screw into the flange. Inspection of the brakes involves ONLY the removal of the wheel, one set screw and the drum which always goes back on in the same position. No need to remove the hub - especially pleasing on the rear ones. Cars have been done this way for many decades, some with no set screw at all. Swaging is a PITA and causes lots of problems when the "squished" material of the stud "oozes" between the drum and flange as often happens. I think this was one of the things Mel Gross was referring to when he made the statement mentioned above.
The studs we buy these days have a longer plain shank than they used to, I suspect to allow for the thicker cast drums. It is best to remove some metal from the shoulder before using them this way or on steel drums.
This might open a can of worms but it has worked for me and I suggest it as an improvement for all Model Aers. It can't be seen when the wheel is on so no probs with judging either
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