The Ford Barn - View Single Post - Fighting a "missing then stall problem" when hot

topchop · 07-10-2017, 10:24 AM

Battling this for several weeks now with no resolution, only frustration.

Basically, I am seeking an answer to a question at the bottom on this post.

59AB motor rebuilt 1 year ago. Ran fine.
At time of rebuild: Bubba distributor, Charlie NY 94 carb, can style coil bypassing the resistor.
Using ethanol-free gas, from the same gas station.
Over the winter, I replaced wiring harness under dash.

About 100 miles into driving this season, began the vapor lock symptoms...at temperature (185 degrees, both head temps) usually driving for 15-20 minutes, begin to buck and eventually stop on the road, wherever I am. Panic at first, then, oh well. After 20 minutes, it starts up and runs fine for a while. Condition repeats.
When it quit yesterday, I put fuel in the carb and tried to start to see if it was fuel starvation, and no. So it seems to be electrical.
I know everyone has remedy's and suggestions, and I've done most of them to no avail.

(One at a time) Replaced coil (NAPA 904), phenolic spacer under carb, replaced condenser (IH 200), inspected distributor and rotor.

This brings me to the ignition switch (toggle switch on column). The back of the switch has 3 posts. One for hot 6v, the other 2 are switched, going to the circuit breaker and the gauge panel.

Following is with cold motor.
When ignition off, I have 6.24 volts on hot post in back of ign switch. Zero on the other 2.
Ignition switched on, I have 5.85v to the 2 switched posts, and at the coil I have 5.82 volts.

Here's the question:
When I start the motor, the voltage to the posts in the back of the ignition switch is 6.1 for a second, then the vm goes crazy. Voltage at the coil is totally OL. Shouldn't it be consistent battery voltage on both connections?

Thanks in advance.

Oh, btw, still looking for a resolution.

07-10-2017, 10:24 AM	#1
topchop Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Rochester, NY Posts: 110	Fighting a "missing then stall problem" when hot Battling this for several weeks now with no resolution, only frustration. Basically, I am seeking an answer to a question at the bottom on this post. 59AB motor rebuilt 1 year ago. Ran fine. At time of rebuild: Bubba distributor, Charlie NY 94 carb, can style coil bypassing the resistor. Using ethanol-free gas, from the same gas station. Over the winter, I replaced wiring harness under dash. About 100 miles into driving this season, began the vapor lock symptoms...at temperature (185 degrees, both head temps) usually driving for 15-20 minutes, begin to buck and eventually stop on the road, wherever I am. Panic at first, then, oh well. After 20 minutes, it starts up and runs fine for a while. Condition repeats. When it quit yesterday, I put fuel in the carb and tried to start to see if it was fuel starvation, and no. So it seems to be electrical. I know everyone has remedy's and suggestions, and I've done most of them to no avail. (One at a time) Replaced coil (NAPA 904), phenolic spacer under carb, replaced condenser (IH 200), inspected distributor and rotor. This brings me to the ignition switch (toggle switch on column). The back of the switch has 3 posts. One for hot 6v, the other 2 are switched, going to the circuit breaker and the gauge panel. Following is with cold motor. When ignition off, I have 6.24 volts on hot post in back of ign switch. Zero on the other 2. Ignition switched on, I have 5.85v to the 2 switched posts, and at the coil I have 5.82 volts. Here's the question: When I start the motor, the voltage to the posts in the back of the ignition switch is 6.1 for a second, then the vm goes crazy. Voltage at the coil is totally OL. Shouldn't it be consistent battery voltage on both connections? Thanks in advance. Oh, btw, still looking for a resolution.