Quote:
Originally Posted by Synchro909
I have a worm with the copper colour all over (little or no wear) but still decided to ditch it. I stand to be corrected on this but I believe it was the early ones that were copper coloured and that the angle for the tapered roller bearings top and bottom is different from the later ones and from the bearings we buy today. If my info is correct, you can't use one of those worms with a new, replacement bearing. I'm sure if I'm wrong (again), someone will chime in.
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Yes, there was a change in the bearing and the worm bearing surface area increasing it from .043 to .047. This is actually noted in the service bulletins I believe August of 1930. I'm not sure of the color of the gear as I always replace both gears. The current repors have that copper look but typically the original gears I remove do not. Maybe someone else has more info on this. You are best served by removing the steering gear and doing a full and thorough rebuild and setup on the bench. I use a pair of straight jaw vise grips tight on the sector shaft when doing the adjustments.
There were several posts above about adjustments. I would follow specifically what the service bulletins say, as that is exactly what I've done and it has served me well for countless steering gear rebuilds and adjustments. counter to what some have said... the offset can be done in the car but is of course more difficult than on the bench. With new gears and on the bench a slight.. I say that again slight) tight spot in the center steer position with full lube will wear in quickly. My '30 tudor box done back in the early 80's still serves me well and with a slight adjustment once is one of the easiest steering "A"'s I have driven.
I use the end tube along with a little RTV and also a little RTV on the mating gasket surfaces of the main housing to sector housing .
Rebuilding a steering box is not cheap.. don't try and do it on the cheap by replacing only one gear, not doing bearings, or saying you can't get the housing lower race out. Do it right or get an exchange from someone who does quality rebuilding. It's just that simple.
Honestly for the time it takes snyders or brattons really don't charge enough for labor on them with all the parts replaced.. and guys like me who do them don't get enough for them either.
FYI.. brattons propack really isn't much of a deal as it does NOT include worm and sector. I prefer to order my own individual parts.
Larry Shepard