The Ford Barn - View Single Post

Dale G. · 10-30-2015, 06:00 PM

I use the 3M contact cement in the spray can. Lay the welting out, cut the length you need for both rails, lay down on newspapers and spray the contact cement on the welting. While the cement is drying a little, follow can directions, get some squeeze clamps ready to clamp the webbing on the frame rails, only need 4. Lift your welting up and take it to the frame rail and lay the sticky side down on the rail. Start from the back and go forward all the way to the front. The welting should go all the way to the end of the frame horn. If you have a roller of some kind or just a block of wood, use it to squash the wrinkles down so the welting is smooth. Put your squeeze clamp on the back end of the welting to hold in place, then go to the front and pull tight enough so that the welting is snug on the rail. Go back and squash the welting again just in case any wrinkles appeared. Do the other rail the same way. Let this set up a few days or longer, I usually let it sit this way for weeks until I am ready to set the body. Here is the fun part. Find a medium size ball peen hammer. On the frame rail, find the holes for the body bolts to go through, find one hole, press the ball of the hammer into the welting to make an indent. Do this for all the holes that a bolt will be going through, even the smaller holes on the frame rail. Go back with your ball peen hammer, hold the ball in the indent with one hand and hit the hammer with another heavy hammer once or twice and there you have your hole in the place it is suppose to be. I use a small ball peen hammer for the smaller holes which works the same. You can take the clamps off because once the contact cement is set, the welting is not going to move. One other thing, the welting at the front should be cut along the side where the taper is so that the radiator splash apron will fit better. I saw this on some original cars before. If you don't do this then when you look under the fender in the front you will see welting hanging down. Poor workmanship as they say in Fine Point!!!

10-30-2015, 06:00 PM	#11
Dale G. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 292	Re: Frame welting installation I use the 3M contact cement in the spray can. Lay the welting out, cut the length you need for both rails, lay down on newspapers and spray the contact cement on the welting. While the cement is drying a little, follow can directions, get some squeeze clamps ready to clamp the webbing on the frame rails, only need 4. Lift your welting up and take it to the frame rail and lay the sticky side down on the rail. Start from the back and go forward all the way to the front. The welting should go all the way to the end of the frame horn. If you have a roller of some kind or just a block of wood, use it to squash the wrinkles down so the welting is smooth. Put your squeeze clamp on the back end of the welting to hold in place, then go to the front and pull tight enough so that the welting is snug on the rail. Go back and squash the welting again just in case any wrinkles appeared. Do the other rail the same way. Let this set up a few days or longer, I usually let it sit this way for weeks until I am ready to set the body. Here is the fun part. Find a medium size ball peen hammer. On the frame rail, find the holes for the body bolts to go through, find one hole, press the ball of the hammer into the welting to make an indent. Do this for all the holes that a bolt will be going through, even the smaller holes on the frame rail. Go back with your ball peen hammer, hold the ball in the indent with one hand and hit the hammer with another heavy hammer once or twice and there you have your hole in the place it is suppose to be. I use a small ball peen hammer for the smaller holes which works the same. You can take the clamps off because once the contact cement is set, the welting is not going to move. One other thing, the welting at the front should be cut along the side where the taper is so that the radiator splash apron will fit better. I saw this on some original cars before. If you don't do this then when you look under the fender in the front you will see welting hanging down. Poor workmanship as they say in Fine Point!!!