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Tom Wesenberg · 09-21-2015, 02:22 PM

An ignition emergency jumper is a very handy tool to carry in your car.
Snyder's lists it as A-11576-RK3 for $14.95.

The fact that you have .3 or .4 volts on the ground side of the coil tells me you have something grounding out. As mentioned, the repro key is often the problem when it's contact rubs on the gas tank. If you have an original popout, then the wire inside has 85 year old insulation and has likely worn and the wire is grounding. If the .3 volts is with the key on or off, then I'd say the problem is most likely right at the key switch.

Also, if you have a slant pole coil, be sure it has insulating washers on each of the primary terminals, so it doesn't short to the case. The hardware order is: insulating washer, flat washer, lock washer, hex nut, then the wire terminal and barrel nut.

09-21-2015, 02:22 PM	#12
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: No spark at distributor An ignition emergency jumper is a very handy tool to carry in your car. Snyder's lists it as A-11576-RK3 for $14.95. The fact that you have .3 or .4 volts on the ground side of the coil tells me you have something grounding out. As mentioned, the repro key is often the problem when it's contact rubs on the gas tank. If you have an original popout, then the wire inside has 85 year old insulation and has likely worn and the wire is grounding. If the .3 volts is with the key on or off, then I'd say the problem is most likely right at the key switch. Also, if you have a slant pole coil, be sure it has insulating washers on each of the primary terminals, so it doesn't short to the case. The hardware order is: insulating washer, flat washer, lock washer, hex nut, then the wire terminal and barrel nut.