Quote:
Originally Posted by 29racer
Thanks for that info but it isn't the Chevy two piece seal they do the parts for. They do a one piece rubber seal and a two piece cork/ neoprene seal.
The Chevy two piece is a much larger diameter and a better seal for pressure systems. The Bouldin model A kit entailed adding metal to the rear of the crank and two aluminium carriers to take the two piece seal. I have only seen it mentioned once and that was in "secrets" magazine from the secrets of speed society. I used the rubber seal on a B crank and it lasted about 50 miles before it fell apart. I don't want to machine the crank down and be stuck with replacing the seal every few weeks!!
I can post pictures of the "A" conversion if you are interested.
Regards Simon
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Ok, I guess I'm a little confused. You didn't specify that you were/are using an A block with a B crank..or is that NOT what you are using
I've used two B blocks now with two B cranks and with Burtz rubber one piece rear seal and Dan Price custom alum 'seal' to match with that Burtz one piece seal. I have had perfectly good oil sealing this way. THE BIG deal with making this work,in my understanding and experience, is to make sure the machinist makes the crank seal area mirror smooth and CONCENTRIC with the seal. I have spoken with respected B Ville engine record holders/engine builders, and found that they used the same one piece rear seal setup to successfully control high pressure oiling !
To be clear, I chose not to use the TWO piece chev rear seal, as I heard of problems that you also speak of. Extensive written instructions came with the one piece seal/Price seal, to be followed by installer/machinist, for successful installation.
Yeah, pictures always help. And, some of more experience here maybe can look/see what ,if anything, if wrong with what is being done ?