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Terry, NJ · 02-13-2015, 01:27 PM

There are two basic methods of activating the the MC pushrod. (with many variations) I have an example of both in my two cars. One requires modifying the pedal and the other does not. I will try to "shorthand" it, not get into a long winded discussion.
1) The pedal gets cut (as on my coupe) and the rod side is relocated to the bottom of the pedal to activate in a opposite manner to your foot travel. (Foot goes forward, the rod pushes back) Back to the MC which is mounted in a reversed direction and activates the brakes. The MC is mounted on a plate attached to the crossmember.
This works well enough except for some flexing in the crossmember. I made a stiffener plate out of angle iron to prevent some of this.
2) The other method is to weld the mounting plate to the frame out side of the chassis and keep the brake rod's direction . Mount the MC outside of the chassis and activate the brakes with the old method using the cross chassis bar/rod. (The old Bar/rod that activated the Mechanical brakes) This plan uses the space under the drivers side splash apron, not the easiest to get to for filling.

I don't like welding on the frame and the MC in #1 is hard enough to fill. I aslo don't like welding an arm on the brake pedal. So neither system is acceptable in my book.
Look at the pictures in my albums My A. there are some of the frame and the plate can be seen. However, if I could talk you out of a Hyd. system, I would. Good Mechanicals are as good. Hydros need more attention, they're definitely higher maintenance.
Terry

02-13-2015, 01:27 PM	#2
Terry, NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks Co, Pa Posts: 3,749	Re: Model a juice brakes There are two basic methods of activating the the MC pushrod. (with many variations) I have an example of both in my two cars. One requires modifying the pedal and the other does not. I will try to "shorthand" it, not get into a long winded discussion. 1) The pedal gets cut (as on my coupe) and the rod side is relocated to the bottom of the pedal to activate in a opposite manner to your foot travel. (Foot goes forward, the rod pushes back) Back to the MC which is mounted in a reversed direction and activates the brakes. The MC is mounted on a plate attached to the crossmember. This works well enough except for some flexing in the crossmember. I made a stiffener plate out of angle iron to prevent some of this. 2) The other method is to weld the mounting plate to the frame out side of the chassis and keep the brake rod's direction . Mount the MC outside of the chassis and activate the brakes with the old method using the cross chassis bar/rod. (The old Bar/rod that activated the Mechanical brakes) This plan uses the space under the drivers side splash apron, not the easiest to get to for filling. I don't like welding on the frame and the MC in #1 is hard enough to fill. I aslo don't like welding an arm on the brake pedal. So neither system is acceptable in my book. Look at the pictures in my albums My A. there are some of the frame and the plate can be seen. However, if I could talk you out of a Hyd. system, I would. Good Mechanicals are as good. Hydros need more attention, they're definitely higher maintenance. Terry