30 Water Pump Removal
 

My 1930 Model A coupe has a leaky water pump, and I have purchased all the parts needed to rebuild. My question is: do I have to remove the radiator to remove the water pump? Thanks, Tom

Re: 30 Water Pump Removal
 

no you don't have to completly remove it. You will have to loosen the bottom bolts that hold the rad and unhook the hood rods... Gently pull the rad towards the light bar. I usually cut a piece of cardboard and put it on the rad to protect it when pulling the waterpump out. Hope this helps

Re: 30 Water Pump Removal
 

Just a quick question, have you tightened the packing nut with a spanner wrench first? I don't know how much you know about your A but some new owners don't know that can be done on original style (non leakless) pumps.
To answer your question, remove the hood and hoses. Take loose the radiator rods from the radiator and just lean it forward.

Re: 30 Water Pump Removal
 

If you have a two blade fan do this. Loosen the two hood rods at the radiator and pop up. Remove the entire hood if you can or be careful with it still in place. Place a piece of thin plywood or cardboard in front of two blade fan to protect the radiator fins from damage. Drain radiator and remove the rad hoses.. (This is also a good time to replace hoses, add thermostat, etc) . Carefully see if you can tilt your radiator ahead till it is close the headlight bar. (If you have a stone guard on the radiator, you have to remove it.) You should be able to wiggle out the fan / waterpump assembly now. If your radiator doesn't move then you may have to loosen or remove the radiator mounting bolts. If you are running with a four blade fan you might as well plan on removing the radiator. If you have the radiator out it is also a good opportunity to give it a proper degreasing, flushing. Do a search for vinegar on the search bar on FB for lots of talk on this.

Re: 30 Water Pump Removal
 

Thanks this helps.

Re: 30 Water Pump Removal
 

Be sure to smear a lot of grease around the new lead packing rings. Without the grease during assembly I had a slow drip I couldn't get rid of. After adding the grease I only checked the tighness of the packing nut a couple times in ten years, and the pump never leaked a drop. I've found Henry's original pump to be the most reliable LEAKPROOF pump made. Now I do add the seal at the end of the rear bushing though to better keep the grease and antifreeze seperated. I also like the locking collar on the front, rather than using the head to control end play.

Re: 30 Water Pump Removal
 

I second the motion on original pumps!

Re: 30 Water Pump Removal
 

after you get pump ojj take the 4 studes out then order bolts from SNYDERS and next time you wont have to take any thing loose the specal bolts are made to look like the studes with nuts they mite even fool a judge

Re: 1930 Water Pump rebuild
 

Is there any where on line I can get video or text instructions

Re: 1930 Water Pump rebuild
 

Would these help?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KeZIC9sJhw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9rJaFNKsLI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGccqcj377s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MxGdH4K0KM

Re: 30 Water Pump Removal
 

I helped swap out a water pump with a 4 bladed fan for an new leakless pump and reused the 4 bladed fan on a 31 coupe owned by a club member. We did not have to remove the radiator, but we did have to loosen the radiator mounting bolts (VERY hard to get to), and remove the headlight bar to allow the radiator to come forward enough to make the swap.

Re: 30 Water Pump Removal
 

One or 2 mounting studs have open threaded holes in the head. Put sealer on those studs, or it will wick water & you'll think the new pump is defective. Ask me HOW I KNOW--NLOL
Bill Drip