The Ford Barn - Hub Puller

The Ford Barn (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/index.php)

- Model A (1928-31) (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=3)

- - Hub Puller (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90274)

Any Pros or Cons on this type Hub Puller?

I like mine. Haven't met a brake drum yet it wouldn't remove with ease. Only problem I ever ran into was that some drum slots are a bit narrower than others.

1. Have one -- used it several times -- always works.

2. Screw axle nut "reversed" on axle shaft, to where back of nut is flush with outward end of axle threads to protect both axle threads & nut threads.

3. Exercise patience & carefully turn the two (2) large bolts often & turn very little after every series of 3 or 4 light hammer taps.

4. Use a light ball pein hammer hitting with multiple light taps as opposed to a 100 lb. maul with one monstrous, gorilla lick making the vehicle fall off of the jack.

5. Exercise care in tightening the 2 large bolts to mantain the outward, black part of puller, (with center hitting lug), parallel to the outward face of the wheel hub.

6. Make a small wooden box container with hinges & latch, and be sure to include a copy of the installation instructions within -- then put a few "Axle Hub Gaskets" in the box, part no. A-4244, (Bratton's part #6230, plus 1 or 2 rear axle key(s) & 1 or 2 axle nut cotter pins.

7. Don't leave home without it -- especially on a long trip alone or with other Model A's -- no mechanic shop along the highway will have this handy tool.

That looks like the one I bought from Mitchell. It is fantastic. I was thinking of getting a small "Pelican" box rather than making a wooden box. It's hard to combine woodworking and a Model A in the same confined workspace that I have.

I am about to redo the rear brakes on my model a - first timer - am I going to need a puller like this to do the job? I got the front drums off without too much humping but....

if so, where can I get one that wont send me to the poor house?

Some days it doesn't take much to send me to the poor house, but I thought that the puller I got from Mitchell was very reasonable at (I think) $85 or so, including freight.

Just a note of caution:

The original rear axel castle nut is special hardened, 5/8-18. That is why you can torque the nut to 90 lbs. without damaging the threads on the axel. You can verify this by looking at a "Dealers Price List" book. Have seen threads on a axel ruined by some one replacing the castle nut with what I call a "butter castle nut"

Ron

Quote:

Originally Posted by CarlG (Post 542764)

Some days it doesn't take much to send me to the poor house, but I thought that the puller I got from Mitchell was very reasonable at (I think) $85 or so, including freight.

Is this the Mitchell tranny and two speed rear axle people?

i tried to find it on the mitchell web site but didn't see it.

is a hub puller a must have tool to get your rear drum off to access the brakes? I get confused by this - I dont want the hub off the drum - i just want to access the brakes. I am working on the front end now - I haven't even taken the wheels off the back yet but b4 i start if i need a tool i like to know.

BTW - thanks everyone for all the info on here - it is soooo great to have access to all this combined experience as a newby

PS - I know that is a dumb question but i don't care I gotta know for sure.... anyway-if the hub puller isn't used to pull the hub from the drum how is it done

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR (Post 542805)

Is this the Mitchell tranny and two speed rear axle people?

Same people: (see sticky at the top)

TRANSMISSIONS
2. No known website: Mitchell Manufacturing (800) 859-2088 (California) [email protected]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4oldfords (Post 542876)

i tried to find it on the mitchell web site but didn't see it...

They don't have a web site (see above), just call or send an eMail.

Quote:

...is a hub puller a must have tool to get your rear drum off to access the brakes? I get confused by this - I dont want the hub off the drum - i just want to access the brakes...

The hub puller is to remove the hub (& drum) off the tapered axle. And yes, you do need something like this to access the rear brakes.

PS: The Mitchell hub puller works on both styles of hubs.

Not exactly the same puller but similar on ebay now.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-HUB-PUL...3df5ff&vxp=mtr

Lance

Love mine! Works great!

thanks Lance i'm gonna give that one a try

great tool! and a real fair cost.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4oldfords (Post 542753)

4oldfords, this is the part and number from Snyder's Antique Auto Parts, hope this helps
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/up...114X-10359.jpg Universal Hub Puller Designed to pull rear brake hubs on Ford vehicles from 1928 to 1948. The puller is equipped with two sets of split rings allowing you to work on either style of rear hub, those with an inside groove or those with an outside ring. U.S.A. Part Number Specifics Price A-1114-X1928-48 $85.00 / set

Installation Instructions:

A-1114-X UNIVERSAL HUB PULLER

This Mitchell Manufacturing product is designed to pull rear brake hubs on Ford vehicles from 1928 to 1948.
The puller is equipped with two sets of split rings allowing you to work on either style of rear hub.
REAR HUB PULLER INSTRUCTIONS
FOR REMOVAL OF REAR BRAKE HUB & DRUM
1. Choose which set of split rings fit your application.
A. Black Split Rings -Hub with inside groove
B. Different Colored Split Rings -Hub with outside ring
The outside ring is standard in the early Model A’s. But could appear in later models too.
2. Place split rings around hub.
3. Slide solid ring over hub and bolt to split rings using the 3/8" bolts provided.
4. Slide 1 /2" bolts through boss and solid ring. Thread bolts into split rings.
5. Check that 3/8" bolts are tight.
6. Tighten 1 / 2" bolts.
7. Hit boss with hammer to brake taper loose. Repeat steps 5 & 6 if necessary .
THE BOSS IS DESIGNED TO HIT WITH A HAMMER. THE
SHOCK LOAD IS NECESSARY TO BREAK THE TAPER LOOSE.
NOTE: The article written by Model A Times describes the usage of this product quite well.
It’s a very simple product to understand and is small enough to carry with your other tools while tourin

"The puller is equipped with two sets of split rings allowing you to work on either style of rear hub, those with an inside groove or those with an outside ring."

Be aware of this fact mentioned by Afordman31 above, there are different types of hubs. If you go with a different kind of puller other than a universal one like the Mitchell, you need to get the one that pulls the kind of hub you have.

Thank you i think im going to get one. ken ct.

About 20 yeqrs ago, I bought a really beefy puller from a Mac Tool salesman. I've pulled many rear drums over the years. It's one tool that I can always depend on.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lance in St Louis (Post 542949)

Not exactly the same puller but similar on ebay now.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-HUB-PUL...3df5ff&vxp=mtr

Lance

I bought a puller from the same guy approximately 10 years ago. Looks like he has only raised his price since then, $3.00.

I have never used the puller, but many others in my car clubs have. It has never failed to pull a hub and it has met some really tough ones on a '40 Ford.

After that pull, the bolts were all replaced, think they might have stretched a bit.

I actually broke one of these! Hubs hadn't been off since Eisenhower was President.

Went with the more "Original Puller" with grade 8 bolt, no problems.