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-   -   Wood Frame body sill -Cutout at rear frame corner ? (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=89739)

eystein 11-22-2012 07:29 PM

Wood Frame body sill -Cutout at rear frame corner ?
 

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Installing the wood subframe of a 68B, I assume that there should be a cutout under the wood body side sills to clear the little finger of the frame side member that goes on top of the frame rear cross member. (see picture) (I have already made holes to clear the rivet heads)

That is -I take it that the wood subframe should rest on the rear cross member and not on the little finger of the side member that goes on top of it. This is the only way that I can get the subframe to sit properly parallel to the top of the frame side members.

Can anyone confirm that there should be a cutout in the wood? It does not appear on the wood drawings that I have got.

swo4rd 11-23-2012 12:58 AM

Re: Wood Frame body sill -Cutout at rear frame corner ?
 

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I am doing a 180A, but the sills for both of these bodies were made by Briggs so I believe the issue might be the same if not similar.

In your photo, you don't have the bumper support on the frame...and I believe you are going to find the same problem there. Some restorers who do not know the correct solution cut a slot in the sill to clear that arm....if the sill is correctly cut and installed, and the anti squeak pads installed, all should clear.

At this bolt hole #9, there was an anti squeak pads installed on top of the frame over the bolt hole, with a 1/2" hole for the bolt. This pad is not like the one’s sold by Model A Part suppliers. It is a rubber impregnated cloth that looks like a conveyor belt. Dan Steel and I have been surveying model A disassembles and found that the #9 pad is 2 3/16” x 1 7/8” and a shave over ¼” thick. At #9, there should be one. It looks like the attached photo (this is not my car and the color of the gray preservative is not accurate). The anti squeak pads are accurate, and they sit right above #9. The extra height clears the rivets.

H. L. Chauvin 11-23-2012 01:44 AM

Re: Wood Frame body sill -Cutout at rear frame corner ?
 

My 1930 Briggs Town Sedan has what appears to be actual rubber pads between the bottom of the wood frame & the top of the steel chassis such that the bottom side of the wood frame is high enough where it does not contact the tops of the steel chassis rivet heads.

Not much help, but have no idea of the origin of these rubber pads.

All body welting appears to be original.

Marco Tahtaras 11-23-2012 10:23 AM

Re: Wood Frame body sill -Cutout at rear frame corner ?
 

All bodies had fabric reinforced rubber pads at every body bolt. This raised the body about 1/4" on average but varied somewhat depending on what was needed for the doors to align.

H. L. Chauvin 11-23-2012 02:56 PM

Re: Wood Frame body sill -Cutout at rear frame corner ?
 

Marco,

In support of your reply, I was told by the last (20) year owner of my 1930 Town Sedan that the body was never lifted -- all (4) doors remain in perfect alignment as well as the hood -- the pads are as you described, are reinforced rubber.

Appears if one is not extremely careful in attempting body removal, these thin skin bodies with very little longitudunal front to back bracing can be disfigured in one very simple single minute vertical movement.

Word of caution: Improper planned body lifting can be thought of as being very similar to work executed by improper planned jack-leg house movers -- none of the house doors & house windows open & close correctly afterwards; & many of the walls & ceilings are over-stressed into crack failure caused by differential lifting forces.

Terry, NJ 11-23-2012 06:39 PM

Re: Wood Frame body sill -Cutout at rear frame corner ?
 

Marco and H. L. , When I took my body off, I found what was originally 3/32 (?) rubber pads and the webbing along the frame. The webbing appeared original ( who knows for sure?) It had that "I've been here since 1930!" look about it. Maybe not!
As you say, My body was a rusty 19Ga steel. Most of the wood was worse than the metal! I considered taking the doors off but decided against it. I cut 4 1x2s and measured and placed them inside the the window positions. I nailed them to a 2x8 and stuck it through the windows with the 1x2 (about 18" long)resting on the crossbar at the top of the window. Then I cut two pieces rope, same length and attached them to the ends of 2x8. This made two bridles which I joined with one knot. Using the Backhoe. Iused the hook on the front loader bucket and lifted the body of the frame. A little maneuvering around the steering column and it was off. Because of the rigidity of the new wood sills and other parts, I feel safe in assembling in reverse order. Any suggestions?
Terry

H. L. Chauvin 11-23-2012 07:44 PM

Re: Wood Frame body sill -Cutout at rear frame corner ?
 

Sounds like you were very careful in preparing removal to avoid any sudden jolting or causing any twisting while lifting.

Good time to check frame for alignment, any sagging, & being level.

Good time to check wood structure -- if wood is painted, give it the old timer's wood boat test -- the point on a pocket knive can ease right through the cosmetics of new paint on a questionable area to find rotten wood -- if wood is solid, the knife point will immediately let you know.

Good time to paint frame & exercise same care in reassembly.

30cabriolet 11-23-2012 10:04 PM

Re: Wood Frame body sill -Cutout at rear frame corner ?
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by eystein (Post 539215)
Can anyone confirm that there should be a cutout in the wood? It does not appear on the wood drawings that I have got.

No, there should not be a cutout in the wood. Countersinking the wood above the rivet heads is enough to keep the subframe from resting only on the rivet heads while you set up the floor. Once the shims are added, nothing will touch.

swo4rd 11-23-2012 11:08 PM

Re: Wood Frame body sill -Cutout at rear frame corner ?
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marco Tahtaras (Post 539504)
All bodies had fabric reinforced rubber pads at every body bolt. This raised the body about 1/4" on average but varied somewhat depending on what was needed for the doors to align.

At every bolt hole shown in De Angelis P30 and 31, there are the fabric/rubber pads that have the appearance of conveyor belts. I described #9's dimensions in my post. The other four were 2 2/4" wide by 1 3/4" long by a shade over 1/4" thick. The frame welting was sized to run just under the splash apron to mounting hole #1 at the cowl. At that point there were 3 or 4 rubber pads that do look like those sold by parts folks with a metal washer on top. Marco has written a very good article on these pads and their function in aligning the body on his web site http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/door-1.htm

I am preparing an article for the 180A group, and would like photos of these pads if any of you photos of the pads or the welting on the frame.

Sckxyss 04-26-2020 07:55 PM

Re: Wood Frame body sill -Cutout at rear frame corner ?
 

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Old thread but there's a cutout indeed on my old rotten 68B subframe.
I send you a private message eystein.
Regards.



Attachment 428688

redmodelt 04-27-2020 08:54 AM

Re: Wood Frame body sill -Cutout at rear frame corner ?
 

Re Marco's post link; Not Authorized to View This Page [CFN #0004]

Cape Codder 04-27-2020 09:03 PM

Re: Wood Frame body sill -Cutout at rear frame corner ?
 

redmodelt I to see that about Marco's Post link.

I would like to know why that is as I have seen that in other posts.
Is it because it was posted in 2012 and too old?


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