Electrical Question
 

First off let me say that I am a newbie to the Model A world...and although I hate to ask a stupid question I figure it is probably more stupid to not ask so, here goes one of many to come I am sure. I've been working on my A and am just now getting to the point of attempting to start her up.

Question; Is it normal to have the starter engage without the key turned on?

I am going to have to install a new battery (mine drops too low when the load is applied) before I make a real attempt to start her up. Plan on that today.

Always ready for advice. Thanks.

Re: Electrical Question
 

Yes, the foot button will always crank the starter.
The key just energizes the ignition coil.

Re: Electrical Question
 

Oh, and the key being turned on has to do with starting electricity to start (points) not starter..clear as mud,eh !

Do you have stock 'starter switch' ? I ask, as you don't give much detail.
Working with experience, I will take a quess that your starter switch needs to be taken off of the starter and refurbished or replaced. This may apply especially if your switch is repop! Original Henry starter switches are much more robust/work better than repop. However, you can redo repop switch to get it back to where it will not cause such problem as you describe. Can you say if repop or not and can you take it off and post a picture for further diagnosis/help? There are a COUPLE of items involved that can cause what you ask about..relative to this switch.

Re: Electrical Question
 

Thanks for the info. It does makes sense that the foot button allows the starter to crank and the key energizes the coil.

I should have been a bit more specific, as I did engage the starter (foot pedal). I had tried to crank it over this morning and just happenend to have not turned the key on one ocassion and was just surprised that the starter engaged (albeit very slowly due to a lack of voltage).

How about another question? Do you think that a low battery (between 5-5.45 volts) is too low to operate the lights and horn?

Again thanks for your help.

Re: Electrical Question
 

A good ground is essential with a 6V system. Make sure you have good, clean contacts for lights, horn and battery. The system was designed for 6V, and if properly set up and maintained it functions perfectly well.

Re: Electrical Question
 

The real test of a battery is under load, the unloaded voltage is just a surface voltage. There are many things that can make it look like a bad battery, the first and most common issue that I run into is poor connections on the battery cables at the battery or on the ground cable to vehicle connection. Make sure that all of the connections are polished clean and tight. Make sure battery is full of water then charge up the battery with a good charger and then test it under load. you may find that it cranks the engine over just fine, if not, then replace the battery

Re: Electrical Question
 

As with any 'new to me' old car, especially an A due to simplicity, I like to clean and tighten each and every electrical connection physically possible. Don't forget the switch and ammeter connections as well as terminal box, grounds, etc. Good luck, the only stupid question is the one not asked... Be careful A's are addictive and been know to spontaneously reproduce!!!

Re: Electrical Question
 

if you change the battery, the original system[with generator] is + ground..[ An alternator could be either]..If equipped with generator the ammeter should show a + charge when the engine speed is brought up.. If no charge is shown, it may need to be polarized if the car has not been run in awhile.. Just jump across the generator cut-out terminals for a nano-second..
Don't be afraid to ask a question, most folks here try to be helpful.. Once the engine is up and running, you'll find a few more questions..

Re: Electrical Question
 

MB30Roadster,

Welcome. My website has a section on how to start your Model A. It follows Fords owner's manual. Just click on the modelAbasics link below. It took me a while to memorize all of the steps, but after awhile it becomes natural.

Paul

Re: Electrical Question
 

It doesn't take much current to 'operate lights/horn'. The horn might sound 'sick' and the lights might be 'dim'...but will operate for a short time with low voltage. HOWEVER, the starter will grunt/groan with low voltage and you will quickly go 'dead' in that condition. BTW.. good GROUND is vital.

Re: Electrical Question
 

Also remember the Model A 6 volt starter won't spin like a modern 12v starter. You can go on Youtube to see and hear several A engines being turned over to give you the sound and feel. Best of luck

Re: Electrical Question
 

Since last post I have run through the wiring and ignition (easy to do, wow! got to love the simplicity of it) and lo and behold, I was able to get power to the headlights, tail lights and distributor, all very good news. I have been "tinkering" with the A when I could make time. Anyway, long story short, after getting power I made an attempt to start her for the first time. After fixing a carb leak (more like pouring) I must say, with a lot of joy....she's alive! After the work put into her to have her fire up and run is a great feeling to say the least. Truthfully, I'm like a kid in a candy store.:D

Re: Electrical Question
 

I think we all know that feeling!

Re: Electrical Question
 

Sure do!!

MB30Roadster, where in Florida are you located?

Re: Electrical Question
 

Gulf Coast, Destin area. You?

Re: Electrical Question
 

Ft lauderdale area

Re: Electrical Question
 

Hate to beat a dead horse but, I need some advice. While working on getting the brake light to work I have discovered that in the harness (cloth covered) at the tail light there are three wires. One seems to be green, one black and the other I would guess to be yellow. I have looked at the wiring diagram and see the green and black are for the tail and brake light but I don't know what the other one is for and could use some advice. BTW-it is constant hot. Also, I'm still trying to figure out why no brake light either. I have continuity when the switch is closed and good voltage going to it but, it drops when closed. Any ideas on either?
Much appreciated,
Mitch

Re: Electrical Question
 

Not quite sure I understand what your saying about the switch but the
brake light should be off when you push the plunger on the switch in.

Bob

Re: Electrical Question
 

That's true if he's working on a 1930-1 with the switch mounted to the crossmember. I guess we have to assume it's a 1930 Roadster.

I never saw the year or body style mentioned, but if it's a 1928-9 then the brake switch is mounted on the tranny top and is on when the rod is pulled.

If the voltage at the brake light switch drops when the switch is turned on, then you have a weak battery, bad connection between the battery and switch, or the switch or wiring between the switch and brake light is shorting to ground.

Re: Electrical Question
 

Should have mentioned what I'm working on. It's a 30 Roadster and yes it is mounted on the crossmember.Thanks for the info. I'll retrace and recheck my voltage from the battery to switch and then to the light. How about the third wire I mentioned? Hate to be a bother, I'm not bad at the machanical aspect of things but, I'm not the best when it comes to electrical work, sort of just fumble my way through it most of the time. Anyway, I've been working on getting my first A up and running. It's been fun!