1934 steering box interchange?
 

I am having trouble locating a 1934 steering box for my tudor sedan. I don't actually have any of the related parts, column and such. Are there other years that are a direct interchange? I ask so that I can broaden my search and at least I have something to steer with. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Re: 1934 steering box interchange?
 

32-4 boxes all mount alike, column lenghts and drops vary. Lots of folks us a F-1 box and worm from a 50's truck, if you are looking, it is the one with the big mounting flange and pitman that has a clamp bolt. I am told the 34 shaft will fit the F-1 worm and 34 column and drop are then used. There is also some work to be done with the mounting flange. All appears totally original except there are no four bolts on top of the gear, thus starter switch has to be spotted to the steering gear housing. I am sure others will chime in here on what has to be done to the mounting flange.

Re: 1934 steering box interchange?
 

Jim,

The three mounting holes for the box to the frame are different on a '32 (please don't ask how I know). Same pattern but rotated.

Charlie Stephens

Re: 1934 steering box interchange?
 

Here is a picture of an F1 box modified using a 34 flange, if this is what your interested in, i can give you more info....Ed

Re: 1934 steering box interchange?
 

Thanks for the information fellas. A little background...my car is RHD and I'm attempting to switch it to LHD. All the mounting holes/pads are still in the left side of the car for the steering gear, pedal assembly, and other items.
Ed, yes I would be interested in additional info on that arrangement.

Re: 1934 steering box interchange?
 

There some one here that has a left hand drive F1 box and stubs in a 34 ,Maybe he will swap

Re: 1934 steering box interchange?
 

Hello Charlie, My early parts book dated 36, gives B-3548 as the same for 32-3 boxes. I have not measured my 32 but sure looks alike. I believe the conversion box shown above is the highly modified truck box, note the box is upside down compared to original box. There is a modifiable F-1 box that when installed looks exactly like the 32-4 box except no foul bolts on top.

Re: 1934 steering box interchange?
 

Here's the difference between '32 and '33-'34 steering boxes-

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/bste...orhousings.htm

Vince Falter has a wonderful site for all this stuff.

(Twice edited, PWV 5 Dec 10- updated Vince's website)

Re: 1934 steering box interchange?
 

Off hand, '32-34 boxes are the same except for the sector housing - different on '32. Worms & sectors will swap, '32s are generally 13:1 and '33-34 are generally 15:1. I think the shaft might be a little longer for '33-34, comes into play when you are dealing with the horn rod / light switch.

If you are thinking about using a '33-34 steering box, please send me a PM and I will put you in touch with Herb Howell here in Cincinnati. He is an amazing fellow and one of his specialties is rebuilding these early steering boxes ('32-34). He might even have one to build for you. He bores the sector housing to take needle bearings and has a setup to press worm gears off & on if necessary.

Will Kimble
www.kimblemandolins.com

Re: 1934 steering box interchange?
 

Actually the type with a pinch bolt pitman is an F100 box, the F-1 box takes a regular early ford nut-retained pitman arm. The flange needs to be rotated and set at an angle to match the gradual taper of the '32-'34 rails. F-1 rails are parallel to each other.

Re: 1934 steering box interchange?
 

There is much more that could be written on this subject, but here are some key points that should be considered:

IF you stay with the original steering, be aware that for earlier 1933, the ratio is/was (as was 1932) 13:1, which is difficult to steer. For later 1933, the ratio was changed to 15:1, which is MUCH better. New (Argentina-made) 15:1 gears are now available that seem to be good, unlike the former parts that were JUNK. Be aware that the 1933 steering shaft for 13:1 was 1/4" shorter than the shaft for 15:1 !!! (Good old Ford...) THEREFORE, you will need to have the shaft, column tube AND horn-light rod that are compatible length!!! (This is true whether you use the original 1934 steering, or transplant a later worm to the 1934 shaft.) Also, as already posted, you will need to have a 1933-1934 sector housing IF you use the original steering. The 1932 sector housing is very similar but NOT workable in a 1934. Note that both have 3 mounting holes BUT the 1932 (as installed in the vehicle) has ONE HOLE UP and two down, whereas the 33-34 has TWO HOLES UP and one down... Also, if you do use the 34 steering, it is vital that it be made LEAKPROOF so that HEAVY GEAR OIL can be used. (There are varying opinions on what lube to use, but grease does not migrate properly and STP was not intended...) The "leak-proofing" includes soldering the oil tube to the bottom plate AND machining the sector housing for a seal...

Note that the F-1 has a different design, in that the worm gear is below the sector gear (rather than above) which also relocates the shaft/column much lower than the original steering. This creates issues with where the column passes through the firewall and floor AND the angle of the column AND how the drop relates to the dashboard - to retain the original angle, a longer drop must be used at the dashboard... The F-1 is NOT the best choice for a 1934... The F-100 of 1956 (not sure about 53-55??? - anyone know?) has the same design as the 1934, in that the Worm gear is above the sector, so the column will be where it was originally and alot of problems are avoided... The hole in the frame for the sector shaft must be slightly enlarged. This would be the best alternative. As posted, the F-100 worm can be transplanted to the 1934 shaft and the original column/drop/lock can be retained. (NOTE that the drop/lock for PASSENGER CARS is different than that for COMMERCIAL models.)

The steerings for 1932-35 all use BUSHINGS for the sector. 1936 use needle
bearings. For 1937 (new-design steering with roller sector GEAR) they went
back to bushings. 1936 was the ONLY year that used needle bearings. These
can be retrofit to 32-35, which requires boring the sector housing. When Ford
went to them in 1936, they increased the OD of the sector housing so as to
maintain the thickness of the material. There has been some previous discussion on the barn as to whether the sector shaft material is suitable for
use with needle bearings (hardness) vs. bushings. I do not know the answer,
but it is something to consider, along with the wall thickness??? especially at
the joint with the flange... A big benefit can be gained in reducing steering effort by installing a needle bearing and race in the upper column to replace the (high-friction) bushing that Ford used there. This makes for a huge improvement in effort and smoothness of steering.

The F-1/F-100 steerings have about an 18:1 ratio, which provides for much easier steering, but which also SLOWS THE STEERING WAY DOWN so have to steer more, and road feel at high speeds is reduced. Lengthening the steering
(Pitman) arm can speed it back up - I think; this always confuses my brain...
but this can cause the drag link angle to be unacceptable, especially if using a dropped axle. Speaking of steering arms, the original 33-34 has an integral ball and comes in two versions; one with a "40" stamped on it for pasenger cars, and another with a "46" stamped on it for Commercials. The difference is in the "clocking" to compensate for the steeper angle of the Commercial column... Speaking of drag links, an adjustable-length is needed so that the front wheels can be going straight when the steering gears are on "high center" - otherwise, there will be slop/play when going straight, because there is built-in play in the gears at off-center to allow adjustment for wear without binding.

I run an original 15:1 in my 34 with all the original column etc. and it seems to
work good. I like the faster steering, especially at higher speeds, and find the
effort required at lower speeds to be acceptable FOR ME.

Re: 1934 steering box interchange?
 

I have a 33-34 outer coller if you need one the one between the box and the frame.

Re: 1934 steering box interchange?
 

Thanks for the info Richard ,good stuff !
I see you have some parts you can use from your old RHD box and column. I have learned thru the years that the you can use the following for a LHD.
The shaft,bearing,column,pitman arm and column mount if your not doing a 100% correct restoration. Were you'll have to find a box 1932 33 34 with 33-34 mount plus a sector shaft and gear. Just a fun fact is a model a flange mount will bolt up to a 32-34 box for a little better steering:D.
If your building a daily driver you may want to look at the 1938-42 Ford box. Its a far better box and can be fitted just like a F1 or F100 box. Plus its much cheaper and easy to find . Just turn her on the side cut/down the long shaft housing 1.750 and mount a 33-34 flange to her. If you have a large lathe you can spin the shaft mount down and press the 33-34 mount to it . You are NOT cutting the sector shaft just the housing. You can cut a few of the original mounting tabs or use them a a mount as well. We smooth ours out so it looks better. This way you have the column tube and dash mount from the RHD and will bolt to the box with a little nibbling on the tube.

Re: 1934 steering box interchange?
 

Hop Up: If the RHD (Pitman) arm is used on a LHD, is the "clocking" correct???

Regarding the 38-42 steering (37-41? 48? the box housing was modified in 1942?) my endstinks tell me that if it is laid on its side with the Pitman arm pointing downward, as it needs to be on a 34, it will steer backwards ??? (The F-1 uses the same gears as 37-48 and the worm is on the bottom of the sector so it will not steer backwards...) What I have seen where the 37-48 steerings are used on their side with a drag link, the Pitman arm must point upward...

...and finally, how would using a Model A flange make for better steering???

...oh I get it; use the 32-34 steering gear in a Model A...

Re: 1934 steering box interchange?
 

Thanks to all for for responding with information it's a great help. Way more than I expected. Looks like a have a few options.

Richard - Thanks and I'll be seeing you for some brake parts when I get there as I will be using the 34 pedals.

Hellmet - Thanks for the offer.

Will Kimble - I sent you a PM for the contact.