Modern Shocks and Installation
 

I am looking at potentially purchasing a set of modern shocks instead of going with the original style shocks. What are the opinions from those who have installed and used these? Right now they're "on sale" at Mac's and because I'm doing this on a budget of sorts, I am trying to get the best deals possible. I would like to know if they are worth anything when it comes to their functionality and performance. I am not too concerned with the fact that they are not original, I am looking for something functional.

I would appreciate opinions please. Thanks! :D

http://macsautoparts.com/model-a-mod...0R3CHL1096481/

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

I installed a similar set of shocks about 6 years ago. There was one hole that had to be drilled in the rear cross member for the top of the rear shocks. This past August one side broke out a chunk of the cross member. I investigated going with the same setup and welding the cross member perhaps with some reinforcement there. After doing some investigating decided to bite the bullet and bought a set of Bill Stipes. I realize they are expensive and that's not what your looking at doing. But I think I learned a lesson.

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

This may not be a fair comparison because of the differences in vehicle weight, but I have a '29 roadster with modern tube shocks and a '29 tudor sedan with original shocks. The sedan has a much nicer ride, whereas the roadster has a harder ride and really jars you when hitting a pothole or bump.

I have read that the choice of tube shock has a great effect on the ride. A firmer shock may not be at all suitable for a light weight car like the roadster, but the car came that way when I bought it and I'll most likely leave it alone for now. It's not that bad, but I do notice the difference between the 2 cars.

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

I have rode in a '30 tudor sedan that a friend installed tube shocks in and it was the stiffest, worst riding machine I have ever rode in. In fact I would compare it to riding on a hay wagon (no straw bales to sit on eaither). The tube shocks also made the front of the car sit higher than the back.

I would spend the money and get a set of original shocks rebuilt and install them. I see no advantages installing tube shocks on a model A.

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

I just got a set of Ken Davis shocks (delivered on Tuesday). They are a bargain compared to the other options I found. Like the ones that Mac's carries, they require drilling a hole in the front axle.

http://www.kendavismodela.com/Shocks.html

I hope to get them installed this weekend and will let you know what I think.

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

I'll be waiting to hear what you think. I need shocks and keep going back and forth between stock or modern.

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

I was looking to replace the tube shocks that came with the kit I purchased (before the cross member broke see above) and discovered that the shocks were originally installed on a 1 ton Chevy pick up. So do some checking before buying tube shocks and make sure they are proper weight and length for the vehicle.

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

[QUOTE=Model A Fan;292375]I am looking at potentially purchasing a set of modern shocks instead of going with the original style shocks. What are the opinions from those who have installed and used these? Right now they're "on sale" at Mac's and because I'm doing this on a budget of sorts, I am trying to get the best deals possible. I would like to know if they are worth anything when it comes to their functionality and performance. I am not too concerned with the fact that they are not original, I am looking for something functional.

I would appreciate opinions please. Thanks! :D
---------------------
A few things to know/consider:
-don't use gas tube shocks:eek:
-use hydraulic shocks from appropriate size/weight later model hydraulic shock equipped car..not truck 1 ton,etc...
-shock installation has to be properly installed/positioned..
There are other alternatives also, like mechanical/friction shocks.
I have a roadster with tube hydraulics..the ride is excellent with great handling. I have a coupe with original shocks that work properly and this car has a more mushy ride than the roadster/losey handling. I have a bud tht has a hot hill climb roadster that utilizes mechanical/friction shocks that make his ride very stable! So, you have choices..that's good!

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

A litle info please! How much Frame drilling was there? What are the numbers of your tube shocks? What model car uses them? I have heard to use Hyd. shocks before as opposed to gas shocks, Why is that? Also, could you post some pics?
T.I.A. Terry



\
[QUOTE=hardtimes;292676]

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

First, do no harm. Don't do anything to your Model A that someone later on will have to repair or replace to make it right.

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

Here is Snyder's shocks. No hole to drill in front axle.No gas pressure,all hydraulic for smooth ride. I have used these shocks for 13,000 miles and recommend them if you want modern shocks.

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

Reading your post today about your recent "haul," I would say it looks like you have the resources to find, trade for, or buy original shocks, and that is what you should do.

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

I finally got around to installing the shocks that I got from Ken Davis. I'm very pleased with how the installation went. Ken's instructions are practically non-existent, however, it is fairly obvious how they go in. If you have the old Houdaille shocks in the car, you will need to remove all the old linkages.

The fronts went together very easily. You need to remove the original Houdaille cylinder. The upper bracket mounts in the original Houdaille mounting holes. Don't be confused by the one extra hole in the bracket. It is there to clear a frame rivet. The lower front bracket does require drilling a 3/8" hole through the front axle. I know...it is not easy to drill a hole through our precious Henry Steel, but (a)these axles are plenty strong enough to manage it, (b)if I ever change back that hole can easily be welded back up, and (c)I'm not that much of a purist. The hole is drilled about 4" from the spring perch. Spend a little time to ensure that you put it where you will get the best clearance as the axle travels.

The rears do require the removal of the brake drums. The lower brackets bolt right through the brake backing plate. Here I encountered my only disappointment with the design. The original nuts that secure the bolts through the backing plates have a built-in spacer to fit into a recess. The ones that come with the kit don't. And, the new bolts are a different thread, so you can't reuse the old nuts. I made some small spacers to compensate, but if I had to do it over again, I would take the time to get longer bolts the same thread as the originals, drill a cotter pin hole through them, and reused the original nuts.

The location to attach the upper brackets for the rears was a little tricky to find. Look directly above the springs and you will find two bolts through the frame. It is secured by those bolts above the frame. Once I found the holes they were easy to mount.

Really taking my time on a pretty cold day, the whole job took the better part of the morning. I still had time for a test drive before lunch.

To be fair, my 1930 Coupe had no shocks at all, and I have no experience driving one with the original Houdaille shock, so I can't compare them. However, compared to driving with no shocks, she is an entirely different car. The improvement in handling and control is remarkable. She is stable around sharp corners, and no longer skitters across the road when hitting rough pavement. The new shocks make her a pleasure to drive, and I believe the increased control makes her safer.

Obviously, the shocks do not look stock, but they don't show much at all. When I get a chance I'm going to crawl under there with a can of flat black and I'm sure they will disappear.

Would I but this kit again? Absolutely! This kit was the most affordable of any of the options I looked at, right around $200.00 for the complete kit ready to install. The brackets are sturdy and well made. Ken was easy to work with and his turn around time was pretty good. And most of all, my wife is now happier to ride with me.

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

In the Summer 2005 Issue of the Model A Times we reviewed rebuilt originals and the various tube shocks. To our surprise the original shocks worked better than the tube type. At that time Stipe wasn't making reproduction original style shocks. We just picked up some of those and are working with them they seemed to be the way to go for the cost. Not holes to drill and look original.

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

I installed a set of tube shocks and am not at all happy with the results. At the next car show, take a look at street rod A's and notice how little travel the front shocks have.......usually about 2-2 1/2 inches. Makes for rough ride anytime your front axle needs to move 3". What needs to be done to make these kits work right is to extend the upper arm way higher than it now is and for the maker to supply a longer GAS shock with plenty of travel.

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

I have had the privilege of working with a guy who will forget more then I could hope to learn about the Model A. When you ask him about shocks he makes a few things clear. The original shocks are expensive and hard to rebuild right. If you want to go with tube shocks (he does) then you must go with fluid shocks and not use any gas shock. The way that gas shocks work is different then fluid shocks and you want a ride build around the gas mechanics. Snyders sells the gas kit and one of the hot rod groups makes them in Canada for a different distributor. I have yet to get to this phase of my work on my Model A but I do know that the guys at Snyders will get a call from me and I'll spend the money on the fluid filled tube shocks.

Eric

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

I took the tube shocks off the front of the roadster (came from Snyders) because they rode so hard and replaced them with a pair of rebuilt originals. The ride improved dramatically. I kept the tubes on the rear and it seems to be a good combination, plenty of travel in the rear and good ride. I ended up putting the front tubes on my old doodlebug (good for the back lot).

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

Art Bjornestad: I believe it's been discussed here before but because of the low weight of the A that a HYDRAULIC tube shock is more forgiving and results in a better ride than the gas filled ones. Also when determining length of shock, measure the travel of an ORIGINAL shock and find one that ost closely matches up. JMO
Paul in CT

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

what is differance in gas or hydraulic?

Re: Modern Shocks and Installation
 

The gas shock has high pressure nitrogen above the oil. This is in effect a gas spring as the gas gets compressed over a bump,etc. This gas spring added to the model A spring makes the suspension too stiff,hence a rough ride.

Most shocks are gas shocks made for newer cars. You really have to look for an all hydraulic shock. Snyder's is one place that has them.

John