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Pulley broken Hallo und guten Tag.
I'm currently rebuilding my broked engine block internals onto a crack-free block, which Dave from the NE got for me. During the process, I carelessly broke off a little piece from the pulley flange while maneuvering. Are the rumors true that the two-piece version doesn't always run perfectly true? Thanks in advance! |
Re: Pulley broken Werner, My advice is to dump the original style pulley (unless originality is important to you) and use one of the harmonic balancers made in New Zealand. The improvement to the smoothness of the engine is impressive and it will increase the life of the bearings. They are well made and the ewer version is a two piece item. They are made to suit either the original style of front seal or a modern style one.
I'm sure someone will be able to provide a contact for the maker. I can't lay my hand on mine at the moment. |
Re: Pulley broken For a time, die cast zinc pulleys were made. They were an example of what to avoid. Snyder's has a cast steel two piece that works well. They allow removal of the pulley without removing the radiator. This feature makes them worthwhile.
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I'm sure others have contrary opinions, but that's my $0.02 worth. We (the FordBarn) had a discussion about a year ago re: the harmonic balancers. Here's what Synchro909 turned up then: "I’m reviving this thread because I am in New Zealand and have been speaking with Chris Horn. He is selling to the public at $NZ 450 (about $US 260 plus shipping). I have had one on another car since 2014 and wouldn’t rebuild an engine now and not use one. His phone number is (NZ country code is 64) 021 198 6639. They come with either a reverse scroll for rope seals or a smooth OD for the neoprene seals." |
Re: Pulley broken The latest contact info I have for Chris Horn is
Chris Horn 15 Vulcan Place 8024 Christchurch Canterbury New Zealand [email protected]. Comparison of Horn Balancer to stock: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...26b7395b_z.jpg |
Re: Pulley broken FYI, You can not use the stock type "Ratchet Nut" with the Horn Balancer.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2dc5f7a6_z.jpg |
Re: Pulley broken Something must have changed because I am using the stock "ratchet nut" with the Horn balancer I purchased several years ago.
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Re: Pulley broken Quote:
Only thing that has changed is the one piece is no longer offered, all are two piece. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c5e4a771_z.jpg |
Re: Pulley broken When I installed my latest harmonic balancer, I used the original nut. The tool I made for it didn't reach into the balancer far enough to work so I bought a socket (I think 1 3/8"). I haven't used my home made one again since.
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Re: Pulley broken For those that have installed a Chris horn balancer what is the "fit" of the two piece parts. All the harmonic balancers I have installed on modern engines are a press fit on the crankshaft to make it as one. Is the horn balancer relying on the key, fit on the shaft, or just the torque of the bolt.? What is the recommended torque. I am thinking of installing one on my Burtz. Thanks.
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Guten Tag.
The broken-off piece is just under an inch long. Even though I sanded and polished the edges, the V-belt is still a bit frayed along the side. I wrote to the address in New Zealand mentioned above, but haven't received a reply. I can't imagine that the harmonic pulley mentioned will make much of a difference. The huge, inert mass of the large flywheel should dampen all vibrations, I think? |
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The harmonic balancer treats those vibrations in a different way from a crude, heavy fly wheel. It is designed to absorb the vibration rather than allow it to "wind up" the crank shaft. I hope I have explained that clearly enough. |
Re: Pulley broken Synchro, if as a terry days the Burtz is a modern engine on the inside and I agree it is then a torsional vibration dampener might have some value. One thing I do know modern engines from at least the 50s all have have torsional vibration dampeners and if the dampener is removed or fails the is a high likely hood of the crank failing.. as mentioned the weight of the stock flywheel, plus pressure plate and disc is a massive weight hung on the back of the crank that does dampen the combustion strokes but does nothing to dampen torsional vibration. Many Burtz engines are being built with Terry's 32 lb. Flywheel so tight away you do not have that massive engine combustion shock absorber. So it seems to me any thing you can do to absorb the combustion impulses and torsional vibration may be a good thing. Terry's crankshaft is very robust, heavily counterweighted, well supported but is still not immune to rotational vibration..
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Re: Pulley broken Convinced, thanks! How much does that part weigh, please?
But I don't know where to get it. Now would be the perfect time. The oil pan and timing cover are still off. |
Re: Pulley broken Quote:
I installed mine with the engine in the car, pan and timing cover on. I did have to jack the engine up quite far to clear the front crossmember, but that was with a one piece balancer. It should be easier with the two piece. FYI, someone mentioned all engines from the '50's up had vibration dampeners. Not all, Corvair engines did not have one. Horizontally opposed six cylinders are said to be in "perfect balance". Maybe the same with VW's 4's? |
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