‘34 Spark confusion
 

Alright I’m back again, I have loads of post on here pretty much chasing the same thing and for that I’m sorry but I’m adding another. I tinker on my 34 when I have time can’t get it to fire forget it’s there for a little then get back on it. Recently I started at my spark issue again, I have about 3 of the condensers for the dome coil I tired all those and they’re all bad. Everyone knows those are ordered online and a 50/50 shot that they ever work for me. So, and don’t shoot me when I say this, I tired a 6volt coil adapter plate from Third Gen Auto. This worked….for 1 day. It had a good spark, I flooded it gave it time to sit and tried again and nothing! So I tested the coil and condenser, coil was good and I got a brand new condenser from oreilys, and still no spark. So I started looking around and noticed the “power pig tail” was not sitting on the points contact body correctly.(Pic included in video below) Now I’m not exactly sure that it’s an issue or not but It didn’t look right. So I took it off and put the original coil back on and “MacGyver’d” my new condenser using a screw through the contact point on the coil and hooking the condenser lead onto it. Tried for spark with very little hope and surprise to me it worked! (Also included these videos in the video) issue now is that the spark is not consistent. In the video link you’ll see that I don’t have spark I mess with the ignition witch and the spark comes back. I’m sure the first thing will be get a new ignition switch and this is in the work. But other than this any ideas and comments for me? Also I will add that I have the resistor by passed at the moment so I have roughly 6 volts at the coil and when I do have spark the car does not sounds as if it wants to start. Any help is appreciated and sorry again for another post on the same topics!
Thank you all so much

Here is the video with pictures and videos:

https://youtu.be/4wTCak-Y0f4?si=S8Poc6fb-ZbZNhgy

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

Check for loose wires on the ignition switch and the ignition resistor? The voltage at the coil should be about 3. Volts when the distributor points close and battery volts when the points are open. Couple of your photos shows the brass color spring contact on the bottom of the coil not in the center of the contact in the distributor, not sure if it is making contact at all?? The photo of the silver color spring is in the correct place. You removed the old condenser when you MacGyver'd in the new? With some spark it is possible there is a problem in the distributor, sometimes the rotor contact for the coil brush cracks or points adjustment moves. Unusual brown coil does not appear to be original Ford Is it rebuilt?

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

A couple of things I observed in first couple of pics from video. The carbon contact is not touching rotor in first pic and then it’s touching in later pics. The curly coil contact is not sitting on points correctly.
Personally I think condensers get blamed for more issues than they cause. These Ford distributors are the best if EVERYTHING is correct.
My suggestion would be to replace switch contacts and be sure they are making contact correctly. Re-install Resistor correctly. Then replace complete distributor, coil, condenser assembly with a tested on machine known functionally correct unit. Or have yours set up correctly and run on machine as a unit.
If you don’t have a known good spare assembly I may have one that you could try but would need it back.
Stock Ford is the best option.
Cheers
Tony.
The Black coil is the one the carbon is not making contact.

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

In the first pics I had the coil conversion from third gen installed. It was not sparking off with that on and I observed the spring was not on correctly so I took it off and installed the original style coil. The original style coil fits correctly with the spring touching. I included the pics to show the issue. The coil was been rebuilt by skip about 2 years ago. I have the resistor bypassed at the moment but plan to re do it but with it done I am getting a plenty of volts at the coil. So right now on the car I have the original coil on rebuilt by skip with a brand new condenser fixed a fancy way. The spark is not consistent even with the original coil on. Possibly the switch.

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

SUCCESS!! went back and messed with it some more today and it finally came back after 2 years. (Video link included). So next is it’s running off a temp tank at the moment and I would like to have it run on its own tank before I give it a test run. I have the flex hose disconnected so what is a good way to see if the fuel pump is working correctly or prime the pump once it’s connected?

https://youtu.be/W9vgdo3YXds?si=XihYh1iDz2wwbADC

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

make sure the ing is off and put the fuel line in a soda bottle and hit the starter to turn the motor over and see if it pumps fuel, might take a little cranking to bring up gas.

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

if the fuel pump has a glass sediment bowl, you're in luck as it's possible to see evidence of the pump PULLING fuel into it, otherwise it might be necessary to pull the fuel line off the carb so as to see evidence that fuel is actually being pushed OUT of the fuel pump and into the carb. the later, IMO, is more conclusive evidence of a working fuel pump. good luck! it appears you're getting there. :)

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

Sounds easy enough, I originally bypassed the fuel pump as it wasn’t pulling fuel into the glass bowl but that was when it wasn’t running. I noticed it pulled better fuel if it was running but that was 2 years ago I will mess with it and come back with an update.
Another question, and this is a controversial one….what is the best oil to use in this flathead, I currently use a 50 weight non detergent as the engine has never been rebuilt as I know of. 50 is high and it’s thick so I’m thinking of dropping to 40 or 30 any input? Thanks again!

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

If it were my car and it still ran decently, I would drop the pan and pull the intake and remove as much sludge as I could. I would then fill it with quality 10-30W Detergent oil. If the oil pressure is to low, I'd replace it with 10W/40 or 15W/50 and change it several times. Detergent oil is specifically designed to keep contaminants in suspension instead of settling on the engine producing sludge. The crap comes out with the oil when you change it (and change it frequently before it gets overloaded.

There are a lot of different opinions on this; this is how I would handle if it were my car. The bottom line is that contemporary engine lubricating oil is so much better than it was back in the good old days (non-detergent), that there isn't a comparison. Of course, if the engine is on it's last legs, it probably wouldn't be worth the effort.

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

I wanted to do this when I first got the car but I think I remember reading somewhere that in a 34 with original engine, the engine needs to be lifted sort of and suspended while doing so. While that may be worth it in the long run I think my engine is dated and would not be worth it as you mentioned.

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

Congrats on getting it running, I'm one step behind you with mine.


The pan should come off without lifting the engine. I have not done it myself but it appears looking at the bottom of mine that if you put the chassis on jack stands allowing the front suspension to sag down, remove starter, remove the wishbone ball cap, pull the wishbone downward and put a 10" or so 2x4 between the ball and chassis the pan should have room to slide out.


I did a non-detergent to detergent clean out on an old motor once. Unbelievable how much stuff was caked on everything. The old oils were paraffin wax based, so the "sludge" was more smooth and flaky waxy stuff than sticky gloppy if that makes sense. Wooden Popsicle sticks to scrape with and a $20 throwaway yard sale shop vac to suck it all up. Solvent can get the last of it if you care to go that far. I used naphtha on rags on that motor as it was getting an old fashioned shade-tree refresh with just a hone and new rings.

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

Attach the fuel can to the input of the fuel pump and see if turning the engine over will draw fuel into the glass filter bowl quickly if not disassemble the pump and look for sticking valves, dirt in valve seat, worn and wobbly actuator arm, leaking gasket on the fuel filter bowl or a hole in the pump diaphram. That is a good pump to run VERY easy to rebuild. That pump will take the NAPA 3039 paper filter. I believe Third Gen Auto in Tenn has the gasket and diaphram.

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

About your request that we don’t shoot you for buying a coil adapter from Third Gen, yes, we have our opinions about that but won’t shoot you… yet. Also, we won’t shoot Michael at Third Gen for selling it because he’s only supplying what people want to buy.
So, to your on again/off again spark, when it happens, check to confirm that the coil is actually receiving the incoming voltage. Your guess that it could be the ignition switch is an odds on good guess, so again, check for continuity there, and a drop in voltage through that switch.
Your bypassing the resistor would be required if using an internally resisted coil, but if an original coil, only while starting, not while running, as the full voltage is hard on the points.
Good luck, and take your mattress out to the garage till you get running reliably!

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

Exactly right, third gen auto is a great supplier and I go there for all my parts. Thanks for all suggestions and help and I read and try to absorb it all. When I have my on and off spark I be sure to always check follow the voltage. Oddly enough since I got it started yesterday it hasn’t been giving me issues this far. As much as I would love to spend all day everyday perfecting the minor points I have a job… isn’t that terrible, I have to fund the hobbies somehow. In between that I get a few hours of work in on it. Next step is getting rid of that temp tank and going the cars tank which was clean 2 years ago i just need to drain the old fuel.

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

For the issue with my fuel pump one bolt that mounts it is stripped out. Being that the pump is mechanical could this cause an air link and causing the pump to malfunction?

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

Yes, it can cause the fuel pump to move and NOT set on the fuel pump rod correctly OR fully. The rod only moves about 1/4" max SO any thing less is a big drop in the operating arm movement.

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

That is what I was thinking…the one bolt does hold the fuel pump in the stand quite tight with little movement. I did not have time to try anything today. Still starts off the temp tank but I can’t get the throttle down to a normal rpm without the car dying
so I will need to trouble shoot this as well. I have a Holley 94 and it was rebuilt within the last year. So not sure if it would be dirty or not.

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

Originally the fuel pump was held on with studs. Locktight has a thread repair liquid that works very well. For 34 there are two slightly different fuel pump mounts, both are very tall allowing easy addition of oil.

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

If you have a weak or inconsistent spark the first thing to check for is a short between the distributor points and the coil. Use a multimeter to check for continuity or resistance between the points in open position and the distributor body. If there is check the connections where the wire from the coil enters the distributor. Ask me how I know and how many hours I wasted checking everything else when I had that problem.

Re: ‘34 Spark confusion
 

I will check his out! I was either planning to re thread or buy new but re threading will probably work just fine. Today I primed the fuel line from the tank and I have fuel, but the pump was just not doing anything. I also plan to purchase a new tank to pump hose as this one is a little questionable but it does still have a feee flow through but possibly a vacuum leak. A few pictures included Attachment 576625
Attachment 576626