Original or repop?
 

My clutch went out today. I drove about 37 miles, I was about 1-1/4 miles from home and while making a right turn I pushed the clutch in to down shift and I felt the pedal “give”. Instead of the 1” of play there was about half the pedal stroke and on the next push, it went right to the floor with no resistance. After a tow home, I found the arm that mounts to the shaft that sticks out of the bell housing cracked. On the are there are 4 characters in the casting, PLD 3 that you can see in the image. Nothing anywhere else on the part. Does anyone know if that is a Henry original or a repop? I am really curious

Re: Original or repop?
 

Welcome to the "Cracked Clutch Release Arm Club", whose members are legion. If you have been into Model A's for any length of time, this incident will have most certainly visited you at least once. The clutch arms are approaching 100 years old and metal fatigue is rearing its ugly head. 25-30 years ago we rarely heard about such a failure. These days it doesn't even raise an eyebrow when it happens. Unless you are going for "show", replace the arm with this modern design that is not only more robust than the original design, its added length will somwhat make using the clutch pedal easier: https://www.brattons.com/CLUTCH-RELE...uctinfo/11270/
Marshall

Re: Original or repop?
 

Thanks Marshall for the welcome into the Cracked Clutch Release Arm Club. It would be nice if it was more exclusive. �� Any idea if my arm was original or remanufactured?

Re: Original or repop?
 

"Any idea if my arm was original or remanufactured?"

Not definitively from my perspective. Perhaps someone who deals in Model A parts could look at your photo and determine whether it is an original or a repop. Repo arms looked like originals for many years and after 40 years on a Model A, who'd be able to tell the difference? I should think that even a marginal off-shore repo clutch release arm installed in 1980 would still be o.k., given that the last 40 years' use as a restored or unrestored driver car would have incurred far less use than one installed at the factory between 1928-31. I don't recall when I first saw the stronger repo arm (that looks nothing like the original arm) first became available, but it was surely a couple decades ago. That yours has cracked around the staking rivet falls right in line with how these arms have traditionally failed, making me believe yours is probably an original release arm. Should any readers' release arm break while on the road, clamp a vise grip pliers over the base to close up the crack. This should at least get the car home and save a tow truck expense.
M.

Re: Original or repop?
 

Been thru that one. Mine broke a couple of years ago on the way home. If I had to stop a a light, I would shut off the engine. Then when the light turned green, I would put in 2nd and hit the starter. Not fun. My car is 12v so it would crank right up. Luckily I did not have far to go.

Mine had no numbers.

https://live.staticflickr.com/4540/3...7a6fe29778.jpg

I replaced the arm with the replacement from Bratton's the is longer, making it easier on the old leg to depress. Doesn't look original but the only way you will see it is if I run you over. https://www.brattons.com/CLUTCH-RELE...uctinfo/11270/

Re: Original or repop?
 

I have never seen a late 28-29 keyed arm break. The later units are the problem.

Re: Original or repop?
 

Yes, it is my understanding when they did away with the key, they made the hole and pin larger, weakening the arm. But it took a bunch of years to show up. Seems they all crack right thru the pin hole.

Re: Original or repop?
 

Seeing that number stamped on the side makes me believe it is a "repop". That number doesn't exist in Ford catalogues. IMO

Re: Original or repop?
 

1. Numbers on part tells me that it is likely a Reproduction part.

2. Also from post #1 the OP states that the break happened rather quickly. That tells me that this part may not be Ford forged steel, as all Ford clutch levers were made of.

The failures that I know about start with the CRACK and clutch releasing ONLY PART WAY and then the arm flexing a number of times with the crack closing up EACH time that the pedal is released.

Finally the lever totally fails when the steel gets brittle enough.

Re: Original or repop?
 

Ruth has it right, post #7. The design was changed at some point, probably to save money. This is a design flaw, one of a few in the Model A. I carry a spare arm with me. If I am on a tour and someone else breaks a clutch arm, I can loan them one.

Re: Original or repop?
 

When you guy’s installed your new arms, it requires a new pin to be installed as well. How do you get that done? With a a punch and mallet? With an impact driver? Other method? The interference between the arm, the shaft, and the pin is pretty high so I am wondering how others got it done.

Re: Original or repop?
 

Looks like a reproduced part. If you are going to use a reproduction clutch shaft arm, at least use this one- https://www.mikes-afordable.com/product/A7511C.html It will almost certainly never break.

Marshall is right about the "club". Welcome!

Re: Original or repop?
 

Just snooping in on your post. Is this a very hard job to do? My car has been restored longer than it was original and I'm wondering if I should replace the arm before it breaks. I don't know if it's original or a repro part.
As we say in our club, "if it ain't broke, fix it till it is broke."
Marty

Re: Original or repop?
 

Marty, I am somewhat new to the hobby and I had my engine and transmission rebuilt last winter and as far as I knew my car was pretty well sorted. Never expected it would break. I am going to look for a way to patch it up in the field so I can limp it home to make a complete fix.There has been some good suggestions in these posts, I am looking to see if I can find a split collar or some kind of clamp on “widget” that will keep me from messing with the pin on the side of the road.
Paul, thanks for the tip. I will look at the arm at Mike’s. That style also have the benefit of a slightly longer throw which lowers the muscle needed to push in the clutch.

Re: Original or repop?
 

on the replacement can you fit a good quality shouldered threaded bolt through that hole instead of the pin. you may have to slim down the bolt a tiny bit but keep it snug.
it would make the next change easier.

OU

Re: Original or repop?
 

Next change 2085?

Re: Original or repop?
 

On a tour I saw one changed on the side of road in about 20 minutes. Twice, the replacement broke about 20 miles later. Fortunately several people had spares.

Re: Original or repop?
 

These slides should help you.

Re: Original or repop?
 

Bob, once again, very nice slides. Thanks for sharing.