Block paint
 

The 8BA block is finally about to come out of the machine shop. I dropped off the cam yesterday for cleaning and final fit. They let me see the block while I was there. It looks amazing. Totally clean, looks like new.

I am going to use Bill Hirsch engine enamel with my paint gun, have had good results with that in the past. But thinking about laying down a coat of epoxy primer first. I know the Bill Hirsch enamel can be laid direct but I want a good foundation to protect the block. Is an epoxy primer coat a good idea?

JB

Re: Block paint
 

Probably should ask Bill Hirsch directly?

Re: Block paint
 

The label on the Bill Hirsch can says, "Best results are obtained by spraying and it is not necessary to thin the paint. But, if thinning is needed use a slow drying enamel reducer. You can even use lacquer thinner but, it should be slow drying lacquer thinner. All surfaces should be clean and free of grease, oil, scale, etc. IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO USE PRIMER ON CAST IRON SURFACES, BUT IT DEFINITELY IS ON UNPAINTED SURFACES SUCH AS VALVE COVERS AND ALL NON CAST IRON SURFACES....." The label continues with more instructions. Ten years ago I painted my clean cast iron 8BA block without using primer and the paint adheres just fine with zero problems. I used a brush. Here's more advice.
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=667038

Re: Block paint
 

I have always used engine paint on a clean bare block and never had a problem.

Re: Block paint
 

Re: Block paint
 

I've used his products before and after a while, I've had some adhesion issues where the cast iron was a bit too smooth (paint wanting to lift). Next time I'll be trying a self-etching primer or an epoxy primer - just to see if the adhesion of the color coat improves.

Re: Block paint
 

I've had excellent luck with One Shot or Rustolum Rust Stop oil based enamel using a foam brush. The One Shot was the older formula and more than likely still had lead in it.

Re: Block paint
 

An important step is to get the block clean. If you lightly heat the block with a Map torch and clean with acetone you can help adhesion. The block will still have oil in the pores after the machine shop cleaning.

Re: Block paint
 

Last year I painted a 37 block Ford Red. I used POR 15 Engine paint.
First I put the black POR 15 on, waited till it was tacky, per the instructions then I painted the red.
It looked just ok after the second coat of red.
This year I painted an 8ba.
I started with House of Color Red DTM 2 part primer surfacer.
No reducer just the primer and the activator.
I put it on with a brush. I put on an even coat. Not too heavy not too light.
I let it dry/harden it looked great well covered and even.
I then brushed on a coat of the POR 15 engine paint in Ford Red (what was left from the 37 paint job last year).
It only needed one full coat.
It looks fabulous, like it was sprayed on. No brush marks or runs or drips.
Last week I painted the 8ba water pumps.
I didn't want to mix up the House of color for a such a small amount.
Soooo, I used a spray can Red oxide primer. That was a mistake.
I sprayed on 2 coats and let it dry.
I then I used the same POR 15 Ford Red with a brush.
It needed 2 coats of Red and I'm not happy with the result on the pumps.
In all cases everything was properly prepared/cleaned.
The moral of the story, use 2 part primer, brushed or sprayed, then the engine paint, brushed or sprayed.