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-   -   Leaking fuel shut off valve question (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=349945)

mll1446 06-14-2025 07:37 PM

Leaking fuel shut off valve question
 

Have to replace fuel shut off valve it leaks into feul bowl. Nervous about threads in tank and taking old one out and if threads will leak with new one in. Or possibility of existing threads being damaged any suggestions. Thanks in advance

Y-Blockhead 06-14-2025 07:45 PM

Re: Leaking fuel shut off valve question
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by mll1446 (Post 2395029)
Have to replace fuel shut off valve it leaks into feul bowl. Nervous about threads in tank and taking old one out and if threads will leak with new one in. Or possibility of existing threads being damaged any suggestions. Thanks in advance

The valve has ¼" pipe threads going into the tank. I use Locktite 592 on the threads going into the tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KKTH2...v_ov_lig_dp_it. Ensure the valve you install is the new "ball" valve type type that Snyder's sells along with a pencil filter. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...9339&cat=41707

JayJay 06-14-2025 09:21 PM

Re: Leaking fuel shut off valve question
 

Ditto Y-B on using a pencil filter and thread sealer. I have used Permatex 59214 in the past, but lately I've been using Gasoila E-Seal with good results.

mll1446 06-15-2025 10:12 AM

Re: Leaking fuel shut off valve question
 

Thank you

katy 06-15-2025 11:14 AM

Re: Leaking fuel shut off valve question
 

Before you remove the valve, drain as much fuel as possible, then jack up the RH (passenger) side of the car about 4-6". This will cause any remaining fuel to migrate to the opposite side of the tank.

JayJay 06-15-2025 11:22 AM

Re: Leaking fuel shut off valve question
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by katy (Post 2395106)
Before you remove the valve, drain as much fuel as possible, then jack up the RH (passenger) side of the car about 4-6". This will cause any remaining fuel to migrate to the opposite side of the tank.

Downside with the pencil filter is that it adds about 1/4" more standing liquid after the tank is drained through the valve. I drain the tank as best as I can, then stuff rags down the tank inlet to sop up the remaining liquid fuel. Pull them out with a long handled needle nose pliers, or wrap some wire around the rags before you push them in. Put yer stogie aside while yer doing this...

Y-Blockhead 06-15-2025 12:10 PM

Re: Leaking fuel shut off valve question
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead (Post 2395032)
The valve has ¼" pipe threads going into the tank. I use Locktite 592 on the threads going into the tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KKTH2...v_ov_lig_dp_it. Ensure the valve you install is the new "ball" valve type type that Snyder's sells along with a pencil filter. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...9339&cat=41707

Additional info from post #2. Before Snyder's offered the new ball valve I got tired of the original type shut off valve leaking so I installed a second valve, which is a ball valve, to my gas line. it never leaks. I just have to reach farther. If I ever have it apart again, I will move the ball valve to connect to the original valve. I didn't think about it until I had it together...

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c5308c5be5.jpg

mll1446 06-20-2025 05:47 PM

Re: Leaking fuel shut off valve question
 

1 Attachment(s)
Thanks for help old fuel shutoff came out new one screws in 1 1/2 turns then stops . Ideas?

JayJay 06-20-2025 06:08 PM

Re: Leaking fuel shut off valve question
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by mll1446 (Post 2396014)
Thanks for help old fuel shutoff came out new one screws in 1 1/2 turns then stops . Ideas?

That is a tapered fitting, designed to get progressively tighter as you screw it in. So it should not stop dead. Silly question, but are you attempting to screw it in with the handle in the "off" position, in which case the handle will likely hit the tank as you screw it in and stop it? (Don't ask how I know that.)

You could try very gently chasing the threads in the tank with a 14-27 NPT tap. Your goal is to clean the threads of any leftover threadlocker that may have been installed in the past. If you get high resistance, STOP, at that point you may be removing metal, and risk breaking the thread socket loose from the tank. You should also very closely inspect the threads on the male end (the valve) to be sure there aren't any burrs on the threads.

Are you using any of the lubricant/thread lockers discussed earlier? What you have is a steel-to-brass joint, which without some sort of lubricant can gall the brass and make it hard to make up. I try to always use the proper lubricant on tapered fittings.

1-1/2 threads does sound like a quite tight fit. A lot of making up tapered fittings comes from feel and expertise (you gain expertise by making mistakes, and you accumulate mistakes by experience...). Ask around and see if you can find someone who can help you. But please don't force anything, if you force beyond what it can take there is no way it will end well!

Good luck.

katy 06-21-2025 09:43 AM

Re: Leaking fuel shut off valve question
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayJay (Post 2396017)
That is a tapered fitting, designed to get progressively tighter as you screw it in. So it should not stop dead. Silly question, but are you attempting to screw it in with the handle in the "off" position, in which case the handle will likely hit the tank as you screw it in and stop it? (Don't ask how I know that.)

You could try very gently chasing the threads in the tank with a 14-27 NPT tap. Your goal is to clean the threads of any leftover threadlocker that may have been installed in the past. If you get high resistance, STOP, at that point you may be removing metal, and risk breaking the thread socket loose from the tank. You should also very closely inspect the threads on the male end (the valve) to be sure there aren't any burrs on the threads.

Are you using any of the lubricant/thread lockers discussed earlier? What you have is a steel-to-brass joint, which without some sort of lubricant can gall the brass and make it hard to make up. I try to always use the proper lubricant on tapered fittings.

1-1/2 threads does sound like a quite tight fit. A lot of making up tapered fittings comes from feel and expertise (you gain expertise by making mistakes, and you accumulate mistakes by experience...). Ask around and see if you can find someone who can help you. But please don't force anything, if you force beyond what it can take there is no way it will end well!

Good luck.

Ditto


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