dist trouble
 

i cant seem to get my dist in time . it doesnt engage properly as it only goes in
out of time . any help appreciated ........................ steve

Re: dist trouble
 

Huh, what do you mean it only goes in out of time? It doesn't matter at all how the distributor goes in except that the slot in the shaft must engage the tab on the drive gear down in the block. Once it's installed you loosen the screw that holds the distributor cam in place to adjust the timing. Use the timing pin that's at the front of the engine to find TDC for cylinder 1. Unscrew the pin, turn it around and push it into the hole. Use the engine crank to slowly turn the engine over until you feel the pin drop slightly into a dimple on the cam gear. Make sure you have the timing lever on the steering column all the way up (fully retarded) Now work from the passenger side of the engine. The slot in the distributor cam that aligns the rotor should be pointed to approximately the 4:00 position. Now rotate the cam counter clockwise to take up the gear lash, and then clockwise until the points just start to open. Tighten down the cam screw without rotating the cam. They sell a tool to hold the cam in place as you tighten the screw, but it can be done by hand. There, timing is set.

Re: dist trouble
 

More information please. Is this the stock distributor or another kind? Have you tried timing the engine in the normal way with the pin in the camshaft gear cover as Will describes? What do you mean by engage? Do you mean when you insert the distributor into the engine? It should only go in one way because the slots and blades are offset.

Re: dist trouble
 

Is it possible the screw is bottoming out and leaving the rotor slightly loose to turn when the engine is running.

Re: dist trouble
 

You can install a distributor 180 degrees out.

Re: dist trouble
 

FWIW, I have found that with two-piece shafts it is sometimes difficult to get the distributor reinstalled properly on the oil pump drive gear if the lower shaft is attached to the distributor. So generally I separate the lower shaft from the distributor, install the lower shaft into the oil pump drive gear using a screwdriver to turn the shaft until it slides into place, and then install the distributor on top of the lower shaft. I've found that on some aftermarket lower shafts the offsets are just enough out of whack that I have to turn a couple thou off the shaft ends to get them to slip into the couplings. So V4F, if you have a new lower shaft, this may be the issue - the shaft won't slide into the offset connector.

As long as the engine has not been turned over after removal of the distributor, it is really not possible to install the distributor 180 degrees out. That's why the oil pump drive gear, the distributor lower shaft and the distributor top shaft have offset engagement. Timing to 180 degrees off can only happen if the crankshaft has been turned one full revolution so that the #1 cylinder is at TDC of the exhaust stroke, and then the distributor is retimed to the #1 cylinder thinking it's at the top of the compression stroke. But the depression in the timing gear will not line up with the hole in the timing cover at that point.

Re: dist trouble
 

Nope. First off, the slot and tab on the shaft and gear are offset from center slightly, so they will only fit together one way. Secondly, it doesn't matter what direction the rotor is pointing when the distributor is first installed. If you follow the simple timing procedure you can't be off 180 degrees.

Re: dist trouble
 

My 1930 coupe, bought in the early 1960's, had worn slots and tabs and would jump the timing 180 degrees while driving. I would have to stop (the engine stopped) and I would have to pull up the distributor and reset it. I eventually fixed it with new parts.

Re: dist trouble
 

Wow, that must have been really worn out the have the ditributor jump up a ¼" for the slot to disengage and then reengages after half a turn!! What condition was the rest of the engine?

Re: dist trouble
 

Will, the way I discovered the timing was 180 off, was when I found TDC with the timing pin and saw the rotor pointing toward the firewall.

Re: dist trouble
 

Y-Blockhead, Back then people would give me engines that were perfectly good. I think I swapped out that engine shortly after. I used to carry a spare block in the trunk. Probably a stupid idea but I was traveling all over in that car at the time. I used to be able to lift out the engine without the aid of a hoist, but time has erased a lot of things I used to be able to do.

Re: dist trouble
 

Would you remove the pan, crank, and rods/pistons first?

Re: dist trouble
 

Hi Bruce, The block was a complete engine. The flywheel and flywheel housing were probably removed as well as the water pump and manifolds and distributor. Time has erased a lot of the memory of the details.

Re: dist trouble
 

All that means is that somebody really messed up when they timed the ignition. You can only install the distributor one way.

Re: dist trouble
 

The screw holding the point block must be coming loose!!!

Re: dist trouble
 

The slot for the rotor is on the cam so that it can be rotated until it aligns on #1 terminal while setting the breaker to open on #1 timing pin location. The spark control linkage is adjusted along with the timing process so it has to be in the right place too.

Re: dist trouble
 

My Dad & I did that once, swapping an engine from one car to another. (I was about 15 years old at the time.)

Re: dist trouble
 

And I was impressed by the guy in the video of the foundry line who transferred blocks all day after the shaker stage! I'll stick with my engine hoist. ;)