This pitman arm done?
 

Was pulling my steering box to replace the seals and I’m fearing I’m in for a complete rebuild.

Steering on the car was perfect as far as I could tell.

I pulled the pitman arm last night (took forever with all the coagulated grease and dirt)

The ball is oval and it’s not in line with the centerline of the pitman arm. I don’t know if it’s supposed to be or not.

So do I save this or look for a new one? I’m guessing it can be recalled but I just don’t know about the twist. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...81b68bf9f1.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...580b93e37d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b5dc19e90c.jpg

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

The ball is not centered on the arm, it’s offset to align with the steering gear. Looks funny but that’s how it’s supposed to look. But that ball is toast. Most of the Model A vendors offer a reballing service, I got a nice one from Bert’s a few months ago. https://modelastore.com/index.php?ro...&category_id=0

Given the condition of the pitman arm, you might start planning a review of the balls on your steering arms as well.

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

2X JJ comments.

Additionally, try to restore parts that came originally from your car. I'll save a lot of head aches later.

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

Pretty worn but not fatal. The only thing you'll notice is steering is "hard" at the limits of travel.

Some address this with the "SteerEz" kits made for the tie-rod, drag-link. The problem with using a SteerEz with a severely worn ball (you) is that the ball CAN cold-work THROUGH the lip of the nylon disk seat - especially if the steering is taken to limit frequently.

Steering straight ahead or "normal" driving is probably fine.

SteerEz works best with a "new" ball although it can upgrade steering even on used - that is the selling point.

It's not a hard job to cut off the ball and replace it. One needs a 4-1/2 thin grinding wheel, a 12.5mm (0.4921) drill, a press, and a mig welder to make it "more permanent."

The fit is "tight" using the 12.5mm drill, but using a 1/2" drill the fit is a little "loose," and you end up relying on the weld for your strength - which works too.


Joe K

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

Thanks - I was thinking the twist might have been supposed to be there but wasn’t sure. I figured I could get it re-balled. I’ve spent a great deal of my life in chip cutting metal fab but no longer have enough real resources so for the price I may just send it out. Just want the original one done and back and not have it be a core exchange. I’ll look at Bert’s. They’ve helped me in the past when no one else has the parts I need (AR).

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

Give Steve Becker at Bert's a call about doing yours vs. exchange. He may do them in batches and not be able to accommodate that easily. Snyders also reballs arms, but I don't know if they (Snyders) replace the entire ball and shaft or just reball like Bert's does. I just did an exchange, pitman arms are pretty much pitman arms so I didn't have any issue with an exchange.

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

A new arm is cheaper than having the old one reballed.

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

In my opinion now is the time to install the brand new shorter pinion arm!!!

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

In my searching I saw that. Pluses seem to be they make steering lighter feeling and …? Can use the same drag link I take it?

What’s the trade off?

In general I’m mostly a purest when it comes to this car only because I honestly won’t drive it a whole ton and it’s more about the mechanical work of keeping it going and the sentimental value of it being in my family since day 1.

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

I don’t know for sure but it looks like Snyders may be using the ball they sell. Guessing they cut it off, drill a hole then weld in the new ball/pin.

Bert’s is leaving a shaft then pressing a chromed ball bearing with a hole drilled in it over the shaft and welding it. I definitely like the idea of Bert’s a little better if that’s the case.

All options, including the short arm, brand new, and re-balled ones are about the same price everywhere. I’m not too concerned on the prices of each option.

There’s a local machine shop I was told was good with machine work in the car hobby but honestly I think they’d be in the hundreds to do the same thing.

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

Shortened improves handling, but tends to exaggerate "issues" that might be cured with the SteerEZ kit.

It also increases loading of the sector shaft, sector, and worm.

Modern "high pressure lubricant" in the steering box would be recommended if you're not there already.

Its kind of like a high compression head. You want to have everything at "peak" performance - which you'll perceive as improvement - until you don't.

One of my critiques of the various Volkswagens I have driven over the years is that it is a car that is head and shoulders above all others providing it is maintained at peak condition. A degrade in anything become evident quickly. The Germans are EXCELLENT but optimistic engineers.

Joe K

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

The condition of that pitman arm ball is a result of poor lubrication maintenance and over-tightening the drag link's end plug in an effort to reduce shimmying. I can almost guarantee you someone installed the horrible aftermarket front radius rod ("wishbone") mounting configuration with the rubber ball covering the wishbone ball. That will cause shimmying in short order, once the rubber has absorbed oil leaked past the rear main bearing and suffered road slush, mud and water. The rubber becomes mushy and then the wishbone gyrations begin and the front end shimmies. The usual "cure" most guys reach for is to overtighten the drag link and tie rod end plugs. That creates egg-shaped steering balls and divots in the metal balls, as your pitman arm evidences. Why people think the rubber ball mounting system is an improvement over the original Ford design is beyond me. They will fail sooner or later - usually sooner. If I've replaced one of those *^&#$^ things to stop shimmying, I've replaced 50 over the years. Check your radius rod mounting configuration and if it's the aftermarket one with the rubber ball inside, order the correct design with your new pitman arm.
I agree with the others - change pitman arms, either back to the stock length if you are a purist, or install the shorter arm if you want easier steering. You may lose a little turning radius with the shorter arm, but you'll never notice it. You will LOVE the easier steering the shorter arm will provide.
Marshall

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

I don't have personal experience, but I think I've heard that the shorter pitman arm causes the steering wheel to be a bit cockeyed when driving straight?

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

My 28 open cab pickup has the 7 tooth steering box I did not experience any drawbacks installing the shorter Pitman arm on mine even the turning radius stayed the same!!!

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

Myth

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

Tend to agree. Squeeze up on the plugs on the drag link will bring the same effect.

The rodders (with relocated steering boxes) HAVE used a tie rod type drag link with right/left threads/ball receivers for quite a while - but I don't think this level of adjustment is warranted.

Joe K

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

A competent welder can easily replace that ball. They only cost a few bucks.
I have done about a dozen

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

I do not recommend any homemade fix of a worn-out Pitman arm. This is safety concern because if the fix fails, you loose control of the Model "A". Model "A" parts dealers have new and properly repaired Pitman arms. See the attached sketches.

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

Highly unlikely Snyder's would do this.
Most likely they have a ball put on to the machined down old ball to a stud, and have it done by A and L.
A and L only do work via the vendors.

Re: This pitman arm done?
 

I added more sketches to Post #18.