Prepping the block 2
 

This video is prepping the block for head reinstall.
Thanks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rB7nVjhx-xo

Re: Prepping the block 2
 

As an engine rebuilder, I will caution you and others about using rotary pads on the deck surfaces. I have seen many blocks that have been damaged using rotary Scotchbrite pads and the rubber bristle-type pads. It is very easy to remove a thousandth or two (-or three) without realizing it which makes head gasket sealing very difficult ...even using Copper-coat. A straight-edge razor blade along with solvent is one of the best methods for cleaning a deck surface.

Re: Prepping the block 2
 

There are several sources for a tool that is made to remove inspection stickers from the windshields. It has a long screw driver like handle and a clamp at the end with a bit of angle to it that holds a single edge razor blade. It works for removing gasket material as well. A large india or aluminum oxide oil stone made for honing large flat surfaces can be passed over a deck surface but the valves can be in the way. Stoning should be done carefully and evenly if at all. Ziz wheels or any abrasive materials used for mechanical surface cleaning, have to be used with caution. Most will remove metal when spun at high rpm. If you use a scotch brite type pad, do it by hand and use no grit heavier than the red stuff, Gray is a safer bet for scouring a surface.

I don't ever reuse a sandwich type copper head gasket. Only the solid copper can be reused and the copper should be heated and quenched to anneal it properly before reuse.

Re: Prepping the block 2
 

Rotor
Solid copper gasket does not get quenched the idea is to anneal back to dead soft

J

Re: Prepping the block 2
 

How to anneal copper: https://www.wikihow.com/Anneal-Copper

Re: Prepping the block 2
 

Wrong it may work for a piece of pipe but not a gasket

J

Re: Prepping the block 2
 

That is how Brit motorcycle manuals always said to anneal copper head gaskets. It was notable that it was the opposite of steel that hardens (in general) when quenched.

Re: Prepping the block 2
 

I took a jewelry casting class in college for S&G and learned a lot about working with metals. Copper gets worked hardened as many know and we were taught to heat the copper to cherry red and then quench in water to soften the copper and make it malleable. For years now I have used that process to reuse copper gaskets, my motorcycle for example and never had a leak yet.

Re: Prepping the block 2
 

It was a ritual when performing 100-hour inspections on recip aircraft to anneal the copper spark plug sealing rings. I would string them all on a piece of safety wire to heat them all at the same time then quench them in a wash basin. It softens them nicely.

Most folks that use the solid copper head gaskets have high compression aluminum heads for performance engines. The gaskets are rather expensive so reusing them as long as possible is a must. The sandwich gaskets are too thin plus they also have other materials involved. It makes it less possible to get a good seal on them. It's hard enough to get a good seal with a new one.

Re: Prepping the block 2
 

Quenching may work on smaller gaskets such as sparkplug or a 2 stroke sealing ring, larger gaskets do not require quench.

As with anything, conflicting information can be found on the web;

https://www.jrcengineering.com/techn...opper-gaskets/

FWIW, I reuse the gaskets indefinitely or if I change the firering dimension (diameter).

John

Re: Prepping the block 2
 

Plus there's all the abrasive grit those pads leave behind.

Re: Prepping the block 2
 

It is an age restricted video. It needs a copy of my passport.