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Gas sender vent question I have a 34 ford that has a 36 ford fuel sender that goes to a more traditional gauge.
I知 sure the sender is dead- I took the gauge to the back and wired direct with proper ground- no dice. Wired the new sender and played with the float level and yup it works. My question- the original sender has an air vent. The replacement does not. Do I need the vent? Was the vent added? I ordered the same part number from Bob Drake. Do I replace my current plate with the vent with the new sender plate? Thank you in advance. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7209263909.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Re: Gas sender vent question For your set up to function you must provide venting. If your tank is a '34, neither it or its filler neck are vented. You must, therefore, use a vented gas cap. Given the position of the gas cap relative to the '34 tank, expect gas spillage when rounding corners with 3/4 of a tank or more of gasoline.
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Re: Gas sender vent question Quote:
Is this a vented gas cap? This seems to be upgraded with a new tank. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d40e5c1695.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Re: Gas sender vent question I'm not familiar with your specific situation, but in other tanks with that type of vent, the other end of the tube that you have fitted to the sender must be secured higher than your fuel filler cap. Otherwise when you're topping off at the gas station there will be gas exiting the tube. You obviously need to make sure that the tube and vent connection is tight.
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Re: Gas sender vent question It doesn't look to be vented.
If you have gas in the tank and your fuel line is connected at the carb, you can test it by putting the gas cap on and blowing into the vent tube. Blow as hard as you can for about 30 seconds, if it keeps pressure, the cap is not vented. |
Re: Gas sender vent question 1 Attachment(s)
Here is what the 36-40 correct vented cap looks like on the underside.It will interchange with a 32-35 gas cap.
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Re: Gas sender vent question From your photo of your existing, bad, sender it appears you have a vent tube between the two electrical wires. The vent at this location will allow you to use an original unvented cap and prevent fuel from escaping from the cap. Without a vent on the tank itself refueling can become bother some since the trapped air in the tank will want to burb out and bring fuel with it.
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Re: Gas sender vent question Quote:
So I知 thinking I値l modify the new sender with the vent tube. I thought I could switch it-but the sender is riveted to the top. I値l drill a hole-add some tubing and probably do some solder or jb weld to attach it. My current bad one seems to be soldered. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Re: Gas sender vent question DO NOT blow into a 32-35? (not sure when last hydrostatic gauge was) with the stock hydrostatic gauge or you will force the VERY CORROSSIVE Indicator fluid out of the gauge and ruin everything it touches. There is an air line that goes from the "sender"/pick up to the gauge. This unit has a built in vent.
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Re: Gas sender vent question Does the Drake sender attach directly to the tank or is a adapter plate used,
I would like to change my 35 to a 36 gauge. |
Re: Gas sender vent question Someone's not thinking safety here.
Solder -- heat--- gas fumes............. You won't have to worry about venting the tank.................... |
Re: Gas sender vent question Sheldon,
When you state that the vented and non-vented caps interchange, please elaborate as using a vented cap on a '32-'34 vehicle with an in-cab tank with an in-cab filler opening is downright dangerous, even if you like gasoline fumes.:) |
Re: Gas sender vent question Quote:
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Re: Gas sender vent question Quote:
I won稚 do it anywhere near the gas tank- I値l put it in AFTER I solder in the vent. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Re: Gas sender vent question Quote:
I think I have a 35 gas tank so mine fits right in. I also have an aftermarket non hydrostatic modern style gas gauge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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