Door Gap for 1932 Cabriolet
 

I'm seeking to solve the cause of a door gap on my '32 Cabriolet on the driver side.

I'd like to know the distance from the leading edge of the lower hinge on the driver side door to the trailing edge of the door. The distance for the door in the picture is 30" (same door in all pictures) but the distance for another driver side door is 29 1/2". Neither door shows any signs of damage, but when I attach the second door the gap disappears.

Sorry the first picture (6371) is the wrong one. Just posted the correct picture - last picture.

Re: Door Gap for 1932 Cabriolet
 

Put shims under the cowl, and measure again.

Re: Door Gap for 1932 Cabriolet
 

Don't measure from the hinge, which could be bent. Measure from the door skin from edge to edge.

The body shown appears to need to be shimmed.

Re: Door Gap for 1932 Cabriolet
 

Thanks for the comments.
Both doors measure exactly the same 29 1/4" leading edge to trailing edge. Correct, the body does need to be shimmed.

Sorry, I posted the wrong picture (1st one). I meant to post the last picture.

Re: Door Gap for 1932 Cabriolet
 

Do you have the 1/8" and 1/4" thick rubber pads installed between the body and frame at the second rearmost and rearmost body-to-frame attachment points?

Re: Door Gap for 1932 Cabriolet
 

David,

I will need to remember to do that.

Re: Door Gap for 1932 Cabriolet
 

With due respect to David and concerns for authenticity open cars tend to be very sensitive to any flexibility and movement of the body to frame interface. From a practical standpoint I would recommend hard fabric pads (no more than 1/8", 1/16" better) for the firewall, hinge pillar, and latch pillar. Any additional shims should be steel. The rearmost can be 1/4" rubber as the length from there to the latch pillar renders any movement negligible at the pillar. Correct rubber pads are just fine on all other body bolts as the four mentioned anchor the body and control the door adjustment.

Re: Door Gap for 1932 Cabriolet
 

My process for mounting the 32 Bodies to the frame:
Place the frame webbing (about 1/8") on the "flat" of the frame, starting at the rear of the firewall foot but not under the foot. End the webbing at the beginning of the kick up.
Add the shims as David described.
INSTALL THE GAS TANK !!!
This is critical. If the tank height/spacing is not correct you will not be able to install the frame horn covers.
The condition of the rear frame horns is critical as well. Too Low you will have an undesirable gap between the body and tank. Too High and the frame horn covers will be impossible to install. If it all looks good snug the body to the frame. Look at the top of the gas tank and try to slide the rear frame horn covers in. Finalize this area before you move on.
Once the body is on the frame but before it's bolted down, install the firewall with the gasket. I start with a 1/4 in pad under the feet. This is a starting point. Later, you may have to adjust the size of the pad +or - to aid in correctly aligning the doors.
At this point look at the doors and see how they operate. Remove the strikers, male dove tails and rubber bumpers. The doors should open and close without binding or rubbing or sticking on anything.
Check for the alignment of the beads on the door and 1/4 panel. Use the dog leg brackets at the side of the firewall. On both sides, there should be a large bolt that passes from the top of the bracket THROUGH the firewall foot and into the top of the frame at a slight angle.
Tightening this bolt will raise the back top edge of the door. Adding a thin shim under the firewall foot will lower it. Work each side independently. There should be nothing on that bolt no springs, spacers, multiple washers etc.
In my experience if the frame is straight and the body is in good condition they will be relatively straight forward to shim/adjust. Closed cars are the easiest, open cars are a little more challenging. Phaetons will make you invent new curse words.
Good luck and remember patience is a virtue.