change to hydraulic brakes on a -36
 

What is the best way to convert a 1936 Ford to hydraulic brakes ?
Which part shuld I use for a good result ?
//Mike

Re: change to hydraulic brakes on a -36
 

Re: change to hydraulic brakes on a -36
 

Using 1939 pedals and master cylinder is a traditional way to convert 1935-38 mechanical brakes to a hydraulic brake system. Here's an older thread with much information for installing the '39 pedals in a '36 frame:

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ht=1939+pedals

Re: change to hydraulic brakes on a -36
 

[QUOTE=BlueNotes;2314265]Using 1939 pedals and master cylinder is a traditional way to convert 1935-38 mechanical brakes to a hydraulic brake system. Here's an older thread with much information for installing the '39 pedals in a '36 frame:

Involves a lot of frame cutting. If I had to do over I'd use 36 pedals and parts from http://www.earlyv8garage.net/

Re: change to hydraulic brakes on a -36
 

That's also a way to do it with their $649.95 kit. No master cylinder is included in the kit though.

Re: change to hydraulic brakes on a -36
 

$649.95? In 1960, I put a '39-'48 master cylinder into my '36 with stock pedals with $.50 worth of angle iron and some spare bolts. It worked very well, but probably didn't look quite as good as the current kit.;)

Re: change to hydraulic brakes on a -36
 

I believe the O/P would be well served by spending some time reviewing the myriad of posts on this subject on the forum. It would serve him well to at least understand the difference between Bendix and Lockheed brakes.

Re: change to hydraulic brakes on a -36
 

In the link BELOW is a short description of the two basic types of brakes that I wrote-up some time back. It does help to understand their individual working theories. The "Bendix" (synonymous with 'SELF-ENERGIZING') most definitely far superior to the Lockheeds.

Coop


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...35&postcount=1



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Re: change to hydraulic brakes on a -36
 

I have installed floaters in about a dozen cars/trucks from 1929, 34, 36, 38. I will tell you they work as good or better than the hydraulic conversions with out the floating fronf shoes such as 48 up ford pick ups.

Re: change to hydraulic brakes on a -36
 

Be aware you will also need to change your front hub/drums to '37-'39 parts if you are going to retain your wide 5 wheels. Your '36 rear drums will work.

As the previous poster stated you can make probably make the mechanical brakes work as good as Lockheed juice brakes.

If you are set on hyd brakes it would be a good idea to use self-energizing repop Lincoln brakes on at least the front.

'39 pedals work;but V8 Garage's kit turns that end of it into a bolt-on option.

Re: change to hydraulic brakes on a -36
 

This is the Early V8 Garage 1935-35 hydraulic brake conversion kit.

Re: change to hydraulic brakes on a -36
 

Stock 1936 spindles, hubs and drums are one year only are they not?

Re: change to hydraulic brakes on a -36
 

Yes, they are.

Re: change to hydraulic brakes on a -36
 

Re: change to hydraulic brakes on a -36
 

I've sold several brake conversions for 35-40 Fords using the Boling Bros Lincoln brakes. Work great.

Re: change to hydraulic brakes on a -36
 

Stock 37-39 wide 5 drums work with Lincoln backing plates, a slight bit of relief must be ground on the top of 36 spindle. I used Lincoln/Bendix brakes on the front and 39 Ford/Lockheed on the rear of my 36 coupe. Initially I had the EV8 Garage hydraulic brake setup style #1 on my car, but when I went to a T170 RTS 4speed trans, it wouldn't work due to the elimination of the K member mounted pedal pivots utilized in that kit. Style#2 also interfered with the trans install so I am running a Drake repop 39 pedal assembly that required a bit of cutting in the K member to make it fit. It does relocate the pedals a bit from stock, but not noticeable. All that being said, I have a slightly used EV8 Garage style #1 bolt in hydraulic kit that is missing the Ebrake portion (I'm still using that part) for sale if anyone is interested. Lacy sells the Ebrake portion separately, but it is just a slightly bent S shape tube with an attachment tab welded to one end to anchor it. It guides the cable back to the pull yoke. Easy fab
PM me if you are interested in the barely used Style #1 kit I have.
It bolts directly to the holes in the K member just behind the center section and rides under the Torque tube. No alteration of any stock assemblies at all. Nicely engineered.