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'35 sending unit in a '36 gas tank Anyone know of the correct adapter plate to go from the 6 screw 1935 hydrastatic sending unit being used with a '36 tank, also a 6 screw attachment?
The one shown on line is a 5 screw to a 6 screw adapter plate. I tried having the '35 tank boiled out, but there is so much crud in there that he says he would have cut, litterally cut, the tank open, sand blast it and weld it back together. Not something I want to have done. And if all else fails, what has to be done to use all '36 sending units and dash gauges in the '35? |
Re: '35 sending unit in a '36 gas tank And if all else fails, what has to be done to use all '36 sending units and dash gauges in the '35?
Easiest way is to fit an entire 36 tank...the fuel line on a 36 comes out of the tank at the front, whereas on a 35 the fuel line comes out of the top [it is combined with the hydrostastic sender unit] |
Re: '35 sending unit in a '36 gas tank I have done that twice and as Brian says,replace the tank. I used a 36 Drake tank then replaced the ( entire dual oil/hydro) hydrostatic gauge with a 36 electric one.I used the Drake senders each time and for me they worked perfectly.
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Re: '35 sending unit in a '36 gas tank I’ve taken gas tanks to radiator shops to have them completely cleaned out, etched and lined. In WA state I’ve used Performance radiator in Tacoma for this service probably two dozen times on both auto and motorcycle gas tanks. Never had an issue. Crud isn’t a problem for them but rot can be. Surface rust isn’t a problem. Another option I’ve used on gas tanks is metal cleaning services. There are two in Oregon. I’m not sure if your area has anything like this or not but there are options to preserve vintage gas tanks that don’t involve cutting it open.
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