Update on 1928-48 Universal Joint kit installation
 

Thanks to suggestions offered in my original post I was able to assemble the U-Joint using rebuild kit.

Sadly, I cracked one of the bearing bushings that fit into the yoke. I still finished the installation using that bushing. The bushing crack is almost imperceptible and is positioned at the bottom of the yoke opening as shown below.

Would it be ok to go ahead and use this U-joint as there is no direct load on the bushing/bearing? All is good except for the hairline crack.

Cost of rebuild kit plus shipping and tax was $82.39 so I would like to think I can still use the U-joint. I don't think I can buy a bushing separately. Thanks again, Jim

PS: To assemble, drop the cross bar (minus the bushings) into one of the yokes halves. Then gently tap on one bushing (with the inside chamfer facing inward (Photo 3) and tap it in just a little bit onto the crossbar and into the yoke. Don't tap it all the way in. Then flip the yoke over and you will find that you can pretty much center the opposite crossbar so it's visually "centered" in the yoke opening Photo 2. Then, insert the other bushing (inside chamfer facing inward) onto the opposite crossbar and gently tap it into the same yoke - a little bit equal to the opposite side. Then move the yoke back and forth to help center it. Then, alternately tap each bushing inward just a little bit onto the cross bar. Go from side to side and don't hit the bushing fully inward all at once. Keep moving the yoke to see if it swivels and keep tapping the bushing in to the correct distance where the grooves for the safety wire line up. This tapping action on each bushing is done while holding the U-joint in one hand and tapping the bushing inward. Follow this procedure for the other yoke and crossbar. I applied WD-40 to make surfaces slippery.

Unfortunately, I cracked a bushing while trying to obtain the best crossbar/yoke/bearing fit so it would swivel properly. If anyone has an extra bearing, bushing please keep me in mind.

Re: Update on 1928-48 Universal Joint kit installation
 

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...8&d=1708027122

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...1&d=1708027231

Re: Update on 1928-48 Universal Joint kit installation
 

Thanks Pete. Your magnification really makes a huge difference.

Re: Update on 1928-48 Universal Joint kit installation
 

Could you use one of the bearing bushings from the old U Joint? How does it fit?

Re: Update on 1928-48 Universal Joint kit installation
 

No, old U-Joint bushings are "sloppy" fit. Worn out.

Wish I new who is actually making this kit so I could request a new bushing.

Re: Update on 1928-48 Universal Joint kit installation
 

Also of interest would be a source for the circular spring clips. They are an odd size which is hard to approximate using the common SAE or metric sizes. When being pushed into position they are under a lot of tension and will take flight to parts unknown if they get away from you. Happened to me once or twice, so remember to wear eye protection!

Re: Update on 1928-48 Universal Joint kit installation
 

There is a guy in the swap section selling what he describes as a really good U Joint for $60. You might inquire.

I had an issue with a rebuild kit where the bushings extended out past the yoke further than the original. I carefully removed some material just to be sure it did not interfere with the inner clam shell.

Re: Update on 1928-48 Universal Joint kit installation
 

The replacement bushings don’t have the snap ring groove in the exact middle of the bushing. It’s important to install them as they come in the package. If you mix up the orientation of the groove, you’ll have the bushing sticking out past the yoke when done and that can potentially hit the inner cap of the clamshell.

We have sets of the original bushings(NOS) that we sell. I can’t sell an individual bushing out of the set, so hopefully someone can help you with the single bushing.

Re: Update on 1928-48 Universal Joint kit installation
 

Mac, On that note what is the best way or tool for removing the C clips? I just did a conversion from truck 4 speed to the 39 style three speed that involved changing the front yoke to the smaller spline. Those clips were a pain. Tim

Re: Update on 1928-48 Universal Joint kit installation
 

If that cracked bushing were mine, I'd run it in the position it sits. But unlike others, I don't mind pushing my luck a bit if the physics makes sense to me.

Re: Update on 1928-48 Universal Joint kit installation
 

The C-clips are made of spring steel which explains why it is difficult to coax them out of the grooves. The trick is to give the clips a hard smack with a dull chisel. This helps to relieve the spring tension and deforms the clip into a slightly open position which makes them easier to remove.

Re: Update on 1928-48 Universal Joint kit installation
 

I'd replace that bushing. Why? Gosh, the amount / time of work it requires to access that assembly, well, I wouldn't take a chance at having to do it again.

Re: Update on 1928-48 Universal Joint kit installation
 

I used a Dremel tool with a small cut off wheel to slice through the clips. Then pried them up and pulled them out with a pair if side cutters.

Re: Update on 1928-48 Universal Joint kit installation
 

Yes Mac. I too noticed that snap ring groove offset. Unfortunately, the installation instruction do not even mention it.